Puppy Socialisation

Why Your Cockapoo puppy Is a Gundog (And Why That Matters More Than You Think

Sat, 02 May 2026 13:29:33 GMT

Why Your Cockapoo Puppy Picks Everything Up - It’s Not Random.

Why Your Cockapoo Is a Gundog (And Why That Matters More Than You Think)

If you’ve got a cockapoo, you’ve probably said something like this at some point:

“He just picks everything up.”
“She steals socks, shoes… anything she can find.”
“He won’t listen outside — he’s just too distracted.”

And at some point, someone may have told you:
“that’s just cockapoos”

But here’s the part most people don’t realise…

Your cockapoo is a gundog.

Yes, really… your cockapoo is a gundog

Cockapoos are a cross between:

· Cocker Spaniel

· Poodle

Both of which are gundog breeds.

Poodles were historically used as retrievers, particularly for waterfowl such as ducks and geese. Toy and miniature poodles have been bred for size, not to remove those working traits, so a lot of that genetic wiring is still very much there.

Cocker Spaniels are what’s known as hunting retrievers. And even if the cocker part of your cockapoo is a show cocker… quite a few of them didn’t get the memo that they’re not supposed to be working.

They were bred to:

work with people
use their nose
pick things up and carry them

So when your puppy is:

grabbing everything they can
running off with your belongings
completely distracted outside

That’s not random.

That’s not them being “naughty”.

That’s instinct.

What that actually looks like in real life

Living with a gundog puppy often means:

they notice everything
they’re constantly drawn to scent
they pick things up… a lot
they struggle to switch off

And if you’ve done puppy classes already, you might have noticed:

things work indoors
and then fall apart outside

That’s usually the missing piece.

Why your puppy keeps picking things up

Let’s focus on one of the most common frustrations:

picking things up (and not giving them back)

With gundogs and their crosses, this is hardwired.

It’s in their DNA to:

find things
carry them

You’re not going to stop that.

And actually… you don’t want to.

What you can influence is:
what they pick up
and what they do with it

Where things often go wrong

When puppies start grabbing things, most people try to:

take it off them
tell them “no”
stop the behaviour altogether

But that usually backfires.

Because now:
the item becomes more valuable
and you become someone to avoid

That’s how you end up with:

stealing
running off
guarding
or swallowing things quickly

What to do instead

Instead of stopping the behaviour, shape it.

Give your puppy better options.

Have toys available and rotate them so they stay interesting
Use a variety of textures (soft, rubber, tug, retrieve toys)
Notice when your puppy chooses a toy and engage with them

That moment matters more than people realise.

Because the more rewarding that is, the more likely they are to choose toys over your belongings.

A quick note on stones (because this comes up a lot)

Stones are usually where people draw the line.

And rightly so — it’s not safe for puppies to be picking them up.

But this is also where things often get a bit tricky.

Because the more we try to:

take stones out of their mouth
swap them for treats
react quickly every time

the more value we accidentally give them

Now the stone isn’t just a stone.

It’s something that:

gets your attention
turns into a game
or earns a reward

So what actually helps?

Instead of constantly managing stones, focus on what you do want in your puppy’s mouth.

build a strong habit of picking up toys
make those toys genuinely interesting (rotate them, use different textures)
engage with your puppy when they choose them

Because if your puppy is carrying something appropriate, there’s far less space and interest for picking up stones.

The bigger picture

You’re not just trying to stop one behaviour.

You’re shaping a pattern:

pick things up and bring them to me

When that’s clear, consistent and rewarding, a lot of the “problem” behaviours start to fade out on their own.

The habit you want to build early

From a very young age, encourage your puppy to:

bring things to you

Not run away with them.
Not hide them.
Not swallow them.

Just bring them to you.

And when they do, praise them and reward it.

Every time.

Why this matters later

If this isn’t shaped early, that same instinct can turn into:

stealing and guarding
chasing and grabbing
swallowing things quickly

None of which are behaviours you want to be fixing later on.

Real life (because this isn’t theory)

This doesn’t mean your dog will only ever bring you appropriate things.

I’ve had:

crocs dropped into the bath while I was in it
lumps of wood brought upstairs from the wood burner

That’s part of living with a gundog.

But I would always rather have a dog who brings me their treasures than one who runs off, hides them, or swallows them.

So why does this matter for training?

Because once you understand this, a lot of things start to make sense.

Your cockapoo isn’t:

stubborn
ignoring you
trying to be difficult

They’re simply doing what they were bred to do.

And most puppy training doesn’t take that into account.

Why generic puppy classes don’t always work

Many puppy classes focus on:

sit
down
recall in a quiet space

Which is fine as a starting point.

But it doesn’t prepare your puppy for:

real environments
scent and distraction
making decisions outside

That’s why things can feel like they “fall apart” once you leave the class.

Where to go from here

This is something we cover in our puppy classes — helping puppies learn how to stay connected to you in the real world, not just in a training space.

If you’re reading this thinking “that’s exactly my puppy”… you’re not alone.

You’re very welcome to join a class, or book a 1-2-1 puppy visit if you’d prefer something more tailored to your dog.

To book your spot in puppy classes - clicke here.

To book a 1-2-1 puppy visit - click here.

Do I Need Puppy Classes? How to Choose the Right One (and Avoid Costly Mistakes

Tue, 14 Apr 2026 19:53:29 GMT

Can I Train My Puppy at Home Without Classes?

Do I Need Puppy Classes? How to Choose the Right One (and Avoid Costly Mistakes)

After bringing a puppy home, a lot of people ask the same question:

“Am I doing this right?”

And very quickly, that turns into another one:

“Do I actually need puppy classes, or can I just train my puppy at home?”

Because when you’ve got a puppy biting your ankles, peeing on the floor, and ignoring everything you thought you taught them, it is very easy to feel like you are getting it wrong.

The honest answer?

Yes, you absolutely can train your puppy at home.

But I’m a dog trainer and behaviourist, and I still take my own puppy to classes.

Because there’s one thing you simply cannot recreate at home:

a structured environment with other puppies, real distractions, and the opportunity to teach your puppy to focus on you despite all of that.

And that’s where the real value is.

Why “home schooling” often falls apart

There is more information available now than ever before.

Videos, blogs, training plans.

You can teach a sit, a down, even recall in your living room.

But information is not the same as understanding.

And it definitely is not the same as real life.

One of the biggest mistakes I see is that puppies are only trained in calm, familiar environments.

Then the moment they step outside, everything falls apart.

Because they have never learned how to:

focus around other dogs
cope with distractions
stay connected to their human in the real world

That is not a training failure.

That is a missing step.

What puppy classes are actually for

Puppy classes are not about teaching your dog to sit on cue.

They are about:

teaching you how to train
helping your puppy learn that you are the centre of their universe
building focus, calmness, and good choices in distracting environments

It is not about control.

It is about connection.

Not all puppy classes are equal (and this really matters)

This is where I get a bit opinionated.

Not all puppy classes are created equal, and choosing the wrong one can actually make things harder.

I have seen:

very young puppies in large, chaotic groups
classes using punishment or harsh handling
“socialisation” that is just uncontrolled free-for-all play
instructors with very little real-life experience
even trainers who have never raised a puppy themselves

Good intentions are not enough.

Puppies are learning all the time, and poor early experiences can stick.

This is where I take my own puppy currently! my training school, but on Saturdays with Sarah!

Puppy Classes in Caversham and Burghfield

What good puppy classes should look like

There is no single perfect formula.

But good classes have a few key things in common.

A good instructor will:

notice what each individual puppy is doing
adapt exercises based on confidence levels
support both shy and bold puppies appropriately
pair puppies carefully during interactions

There should be some socialisation, yes.

But the main focus should always come back to teaching the puppy to focus on their human.

Not at the expense of interaction, but not replaced by it either.

And most importantly:

The instructor should be teaching you, not just handling your puppy.

If you leave a class thinking “that went well”, but you do not know how to replicate it at home, that is a problem.

Red flags to watch out for

If you are choosing a puppy class, here are some things I would personally walk away from:

puppies on slip leads
use of punishment, corrections, or “dominance” language
more than 6 puppies in a class
no option to observe before booking
constant play with no structure or rest
puppies becoming overwhelmed with no intervention

And a big one:

socialisation sessions without owners present

Puppies do not learn how to navigate the world without you there.

They learn how to cope with you.

What to look for instead

If you are choosing a class this week, here is what actually matters.

small groups, ideally no more than 6 puppies
a focus on teaching humans, not just dogs
positive, reward-based methods

And here is how to actually tell if a class is well run when you are watching it:

Thoughtful structure, not chaos

You should not see all puppies doing the same thing non-stop for an hour.

Look for:

short exercises followed by breaks
puppies being given time to settle
moments where nothing is happening and that is intentional

If it looks like constant activity, constant play, or constant pressure, that is not good learning.

An instructor who understands puppies, not just training

Watch how they respond to individual puppies.

do they notice when a puppy is overwhelmed or shutting down?
do they adjust the exercise for different puppies?
do they step in early, or wait until things escalate?

A good instructor is watching the dogs constantly, not just talking.

A supportive, non-judgemental environment

Watch the humans, not just the dogs.

do people look relaxed or tense?
are questions welcomed, or brushed off?
does the instructor explain things, or just correct people?

You should feel like you could ask a silly question and not feel judged.

If you feel uncomfortable just watching, it is not the right place.

Are humans being taught, or just the dogs?

is the instructor demonstrating and then explaining?
are owners being coached through timing and technique?
or is the instructor just handling the puppies themselves?

If you are not learning how to do it at home, the class is not doing its job.

What happens when things do not go to plan?

This tells you everything.

does the instructor stay calm and adapt?
or do they get frustrated, dismiss it, or blame the puppy?

Because things will go wrong in real life.

That is exactly what good classes should prepare you for.

Trust your gut (it matters more than you think)

If something feels off, walk away.

Ask yourself:

do the puppies look comfortable?
do the owners look relaxed?
is the instructor supportive, or dismissive?

Your instructor should feel like someone you can trust.

Not someone who makes you feel like you are getting it wrong.

Why getting this right early matters

Prevention is always easier than cure.

And I say that from lived experience.

When I brought my first puppy home as an adult in 2010, she was a black Labrador called Nika.

She lived to eat. That was her purpose in life.

She had no loyalties. If you had food, she would go with you.

We took her to puppy classes.

And the instructor told us we needed to show her that we were the boss.

So we were told to take her food away from her.

Food. Away from a Labrador.

Just let that sit there for a second.

So we did exactly what we were told.

Our puppy started eating faster.

Then she started hunching over her bowl when we approached.

Then she started growling.

We went back to the instructor for advice.

And we were told to growl back at her.

If you think about it now, how ridiculous does that sound?

But at the time, we trusted the person who was meant to guide us.

Fast forward a few months.

Our puppy had her adult teeth.

And she bit both me and my husband.

It then took us around two years, and the help of qualified behaviourists, to make her safe around food again.

Something that could have been prevented from the start.

Now I know better, I do better.

And that is exactly what good puppy classes should help you do.

Final thought

If you are feeling overwhelmed with your puppy right now, you are not alone.

And you do not need to get everything perfect.

You just need the right kind of support.

The right support early on can make a huge difference.

Not just in how your puppy behaves, but in the relationship you build together.

If you are local to Reading, Caversham, Henley-on-Thames, Tilehurst, Calcot, Burghfield, Mortimer, Tadley, Thatcham, Newbury or nearby and want support getting things right from the start, my puppy classes are built around preventing the exact problems I so often see later on.

More information and booking link here

And if you are not local, you can still follow along. I share what raising a puppy actually looks like, not just the polished version.

How to Stop Your Dog Stealing Things (and Why Your Gundog Won’t Leave Your Socks Alone)

Wed, 03 Sep 2025 14:06:20 GMT

Why does my dog steal things?

How to Stop Your Dog Stealing Things (and Why Your Gundog Won’t Leave Your Socks Alone)

If you share your life with a Labrador, Spaniel, Retriever, Cockapoo or Labradoodle, you may be dealing with some “creative” behaviours.

Dog steals things and runs away.
Shoes disappear from the hallway.
Laundry vanishes from the basket.
Your prize flower beds get dug up.
Lead walks feel like a tug-of-war.

Sound familiar? These aren’t signs of a naughty dog. They’re signs of a gundog (or gundog cross) doing exactly what they were bred to do — just not in the way you’d like.

The good news? You don’t need a gun and a Range Rover to meet your gundog’s needs. With the right training, you can give them an outlet that makes your life easier — while leaving socks, shoes and tea towels where they belong.

Why does my dog steal things and run away?

Dogs don’t naturally know the difference between your belongings and their toys. What they do know is what gets them attention.

Often, when your puppy picks up their own toy, you barely notice. But the second they nab your sock or remote control, suddenly they’re the star of the show. From their perspective: “If I want my human’s attention, grabbing their stuff is the quickest way to get it!”

�� The fix? Flip the script. Make a fuss when your puppy picks up their own toys. Praise them, play with them, show them that choosing the right item gets the best reaction.

You can’t change their DNA — gundogs were bred to pick things up and carry them — but you can influence what they pick up and what they do with it.

How to stop my dog from stealing things in the house?

You don’t need to spend hundreds on fancy toys. In my house, an empty plastic bottle stuffed inside an old sock (with lid and ring removed) is a favourite. The real trick? Rotate toys.

Keep a handful out at a time, with a few hidden away. Swap them around regularly and you’ll maintain that element of novelty. When your dog feels the urge to pick something up, they’re far more likely to go for their “new” toy than your shoes.

Why does my dog steal my shoes but not chew them?

Sometimes it’s not about chewing at all. Carrying an item is deeply satisfying for many gundogs — it’s what they were designed to do.

So when your Spaniel parades your trainers round the garden, it isn’t destruction. It’s their way of fulfilling a need. Training them to retrieve appropriate items (like a toy or dummy) channels that instinct into something you’ll actually thank them for.

Dog steals things and growls – is this resource guarding?

When you rush towards your dog saying “What have you got there?!” you’ve just raised the value of whatever they’re holding. To them, it’s suddenly a prized treasure. Some dogs will run, some will swallow it, and some may growl to warn you off.

�� Instead of chasing, try this:

Take a breath.
Step away from your dog.
Say “Come on, let’s go get a biscuit!” and head towards the kitchen.

If you’ve practised this outside of “stolen item” moments, your dog will happily follow you, often dropping the object on the way. The secret is rehearsing when they have nothing in their mouth — otherwise clever dogs quickly learn: “Pick up sock → human cracks open the biscuit tin.”

For more on resource guarding prevention - read this blog!

How to train your dog to not pick up things?

Here’s the catch: you can’t. Not entirely. Picking up is in their DNA. But you can guide them to make better choices.

Praise them for bringing you their toys.
Rotate toys for novelty.
Encourage them to “show and swap” rather than “grab and dash.”
Practise recall into the kitchen for a treat, so you don’t need to chase them.

What you’re really doing is shaping the behaviour into something more appropriate, and more manageable for daily life.

Should I punish my dog for destroying things?

Short answer: no. Punishment doesn’t solve the problem; it just suppresses behaviour.

If your dog is shredding, chewing or digging, they’re meeting a need. Redirect that energy instead:

Use scent games in the garden instead of letting them dig up flower beds.
Give them cardboard boxes or paper to shred safely.
Add retrieve and carry games into their walks.

A punished dog doesn’t learn what to do. A trained and fulfilled dog does.

How do I stop my dog from picking and ripping things up?

Chewing, shredding and digging are normal outlets for all dogs. If you don’t give them a safe option, they’ll pick their own — and it won’t be your favourite choice.

Try:

Scatter feeding in the grass to tap into natural foraging.
Hide toys or dummies for them to find.
Give them a cardboard box/egg carton to destroy safely (as long as they are not swallowing the cardboard). Another alternative: lettuce or cabbage for them to shred!

Think of it like giving a child Lego instead of letting them dismantle the remote control.

The bigger picture: meeting gundog needs in everyday life.

When you meet your gundog’s innate needs, everything else falls into place:

Walks are calmer (heelwork gives purpose).
Recall improves (because you’re channelling hunting drive).
Stealing decreases (because retrieving has an outlet).
Resource guarding reduces (because swaps become part of the job).
Evenings are quieter (because they’re fulfilled and ready to settle).

A final thought...and an invitation:

If you are local to us and live in Reading, Caversham, Tilehurst, Calcot, Burghfield, Mortimer, Berkshire or Oxfordshire, you don’t need a shotgun or a country estate to enjoy gundog training.

At Dogs Be Dogs, our gundog classes are designed for pet owners — whether you have a Labrador, Spaniel, Retriever, Cockapoo, Labradoodle or any gundog cross. We’ll teach you to give your dog the outlet they need, while giving you the calm, easy walks and sock-free evenings you’ve been dreaming of.

�� Click here to find out more and book your place in our gundog classes.

Because life’s easier when your gundog has a job to do — and it doesn’t involve stealing your laundry.

Adolescent Dog Training: Surviving the Teenage Stage

Mon, 18 Aug 2025 14:38:08 GMT

Surviving adolescence: where did my lovely puppy go?

One minute you’ve got the world’s most angelic puppy. They sit, they stay, they come back when called, they sleep through the night. And then, as if overnight, it’s like their brain has packed up, left the building, and gone on holiday.

Welcome to adolescence.

This is the stage where many owners quietly (or not so quietly) mutter, “my dog’s an absolute a***hole ��.” And honestly, you’re not wrong. If you’re searching for help with teenage dog behaviour in Reading, Caversham, Tilehurst, Calcot, Henley, Burghfield or Mortimer, you’re not alone.

What actually happens in adolescence?

Think of your dog’s brain like a house under renovation. The builders have knocked through the walls, there are wires hanging out everywhere, and the emotional brain and the thinking brain have stopped speaking to each other. The result? Chaos.

Science-wise, hormones are kicking in, brain pathways are being rewired, and self-control temporarily takes a back seat. It’s not that your dog is being wilfully naughty — it’s that their brain is literally under construction.

This is also why your dog might look at you blankly when you ask them to sit (something they’ve done a hundred times before) or suddenly “forget” their recall. It’s not personal — their brain cells are going through a messy divorce.

The “greatest hits” of adolescent dog behaviour:

If any of these sound familiar, congratulations, you have a teenager on your hands:

Selective hearing: You call, and they suddenly forget their name.
Recall meltdown: They could do it yesterday. Today, apparently they’ve never heard the word “come.”
Lead pulling like they’re auditioning for a sled dog team.
Toilet training regression: Boy dogs especially may start cocking their legs — and soft furnishings are fair game.
Theft and destruction: Socks, loo rolls, the TV remote… nothing is safe.
Zoomies at 10pm: Because why not?

These are exactly the kinds of things people Google — “puppy forgot recall,” “teenage dog lead pulling,” “dog toilet training regression” — so if you’re here because you typed one of those in, you’re in the right place.

Why it matters (and why it’s not forever).

The good news? This stage is temporary. Just like human teenagers, they do grow out of it. The bad news? How you handle it now can set the tone for the adult dog you end up living with.

Patience, consistency, and humour are your best tools. Shouting won’t fix it, but setting clear boundaries, giving them outlets for their energy, and keeping up with training will make all the difference.

Adolescence is also the number one age that dogs are surrendered to rescues — not because they’re “bad dogs,” but because owners weren’t prepared for this tricky stage. That’s why getting the right support early on is so important.

Puppy training doesn’t stop at puppyhood!

Here’s the thing a lot of people don’t realise: those lovely puppy foundations you worked so hard on don’t automatically carry your dog through adolescence. This is the stage where they really need reinforcing.

Think of it like revising for an exam. You might have covered the material months ago, but if you don’t keep practising, it won’t stick under pressure. Puppies are exactly the same. The “sit,” “stay,” and “come here” you thought were solid often need revisiting and strengthening during this teenage phase.

The owners who keep up with training during adolescence are the ones who come out the other side with calm, focused adult dogs. The ones who stop often find themselves firefighting bad habits later on.

Top Tip: Food not working? Try toys.

During adolescence, many dogs lose a bit of interest in food. Their hormones are raging, their brains are distracted, and suddenly your liver cake isn’t cutting it.

This is where toys come in. Play taps into a different part of your dog’s brain and can be even more rewarding than food when everything else is more exciting.

The trick is to figure out your dog’s play style. Do they love a game of tug? Are they ball-obsessed? Or do they prefer something they can chase and pounce on? Once you know, you can use that as your “secret weapon” reward in training.

Not only does this keep training fun, but it also gives your adolescent dog a healthy outlet for all that extra energy.

Adolescent dog training in Reading, Caversham, Tilehurst, Calcot, Henley, Burghfield & Mortimer.

At Dogs be Dogs, our adolescent classes are designed exactly for this messy middle stage. We’ll help you:

Rebuild recall, even when your dog’s ears switch off.
Tackle lead pulling before your shoulder gives way.
Teach focus and impulse control without killing the fun.

Most importantly, you’ll leave with a toolkit of strategies that keep you sane and your dog on track to becoming the adult companion you dreamed of.

Book your spot here: �� https://www.dogsbedogs.co.uk/adolescent-dog-classes

Does your dog go on daily group walks but still have endless energy at home? (Gundog walking service in Caversham, Tilehurst & Calcot)

Wed, 13 Aug 2025 16:56:12 GMT

Why the wrong group walk can leave your gundog tired, wired – and still full of energy?

Does Your Dog Actually Enjoy Their Group Walks? Here’s How to Tell – And Why It Matters.

Grab a cuppa and have a scroll-think with me…

It’s easy to assume that all group walks are the same – dogs get out, burn off energy, job done.

But here’s the thing: if your dog is regularly paired with the wrong kind of group, the opposite can happen. Instead of coming home calm and relaxed, they may arrive back wired, frustrated, or sleep because they are tired after the walk, but still have zoomies later, because their needs have not been met.

That’s why we focus on compatibility, meeting breed specific needs, and enrichment, so the time they spend with us leaves them genuinely fulfilled, not just physically tired.

The problem often isn’t bad behaviour or lack of social skills – it’s mismatch.

Why Breed Type Matters on Group Dog Walks

Different breed types come with very different expectations of the world. That doesn’t mean mixed groups can’t work – they can! My own terrier Monty clearly hasn’t read the manual. Raised by a Labrador, he’s more about sharing snacks than shouting at squirrels. His best friend is a Lurcher. They couldn’t be more different on paper, but their energy and communication styles just work.

But I once saw – and now regularly see – a hunting spaniel paired with a herding Collie. One is designed to run, flush, and chase. The other is hardwired to stop movement and control motion. They’re speaking entirely different languages, and neither one is “wrong” – but the tension is written all over their body language.

Too often, dogs are grouped together based on convenience – not compatibility. And that’s where problems can arise.

When it comes to mixed breeds, I always look at the genetics behind them. A Cockapoo or Labradoodle, for example, is a cross between two highly intelligent gundog breeds.

Combining breeds from two or more different groups can give varied results – we recently had a Jackapoo (Jack Russell x Poodle) in our retrieving workshop ��

This isn’t about being snobby about breeds. It’s about understanding who dogs are, and giving them space to thrive. Not every dog wants to wrestle. Not every dog wants a crowd. Not every dog wants to be ignored.

If you’ve ever watched a walk and thought, “Why does this feel off?” – chances are, it’s not bad dogs or bad training. It’s just a case of mismatch.

What Different Breed Types Bring to a Walk – And Why Owners Should Care

�� Gundog breeds (Spaniels, Retrievers, HPRs)

Bred to work alongside people, often with strong hunting instincts. Have you met a spaniel? Chaos with ears. Many love a good rootle in the undergrowth, purposeful sniffing, and a retrieve or two. But that doesn’t always mix well with dogs who want to control the game.

Why owners should care: When they walk with dogs who share their pace and purpose, they tend to come home settled and content, rather than pacing or struggling to switch off – and they’re not practising the over-arousal you don’t want to see at home.

�� Herding breeds (Collies, Shepherds, Corgis)

These dogs are hardwired to move and manage. That often means staring, stalking, or even nipping at other dogs to keep them in line – not always well received by bouncier, more free-spirited dogs who don’t want to be micromanaged.

Why owners should care: If they’re repeatedly placed with dogs whose movement triggers their control instincts, you might notice them more alert or restless afterwards – and they’re rehearsing behaviours you’d rather not encourage.

�� Bull breeds (Staffies, Bulldogs, Bull Terriers)

Typically social, affectionate and playful – but their full-body play style can overwhelm more sensitive dogs. They’re often unfairly labelled as the problem when things get heated, even if they weren’t the ones who caused it.

Why owners should care: Paired thoughtfully, they can burn energy through play without tipping into over-arousal – and they’re not rehearsing the rough play style that can cause trouble in other settings.

�� Terrier breeds (Jack Russells, Border Terriers, Patterdales)

Independent, energetic, and often loud – terriers bring intensity. That strong, confident energy can clash with calmer dogs, and their tendency to act first, think later, isn’t always helpful in a group setting.

Why owners should care: The right group can give terriers an outlet for their energy while avoiding constant conflict – and they’re not practising the high-intensity chasing, barking, or scrapping you don’t want repeated.

�� Sighthound breeds (Greyhounds, Whippets, Lurchers)

Sensitive and elegant, they’re wired to chase but not usually fans of rough-and-tumble play.

Why owners should care: The right walking companions mean sighthounds can enjoy safe opportunities to run, without being hassled into unwanted play – and without rehearsing avoidance or defensive behaviours.

�� Scent hound breeds (Beagles, Foxhounds, Bassets)

Once the nose is down, the ears are off. These dogs often disengage from the group in favour of a good scent trail, which can pull the dynamic apart and distract more focused or handler-oriented dogs.

Why owners should care: When paired with compatible companions, they come home mentally satisfied – and they’re not practising ignoring recall or disappearing off on solo adventures.

�� Primitive and spitz-type breeds (Shibas, Basenjis, Huskies)

These dogs often have a different social style – more aloof, less tolerant of rudeness, and quick to defend space. They don’t always enjoy forced interaction or chaotic energy.

Why owners should care: Being matched with calmer dogs means they can relax and enjoy the walk – and they’re not rehearsing defensive or confrontational responses.

What Makes a Group Walk Actually Work?

It’s not that these dogs can’t walk together – some mixed groups thrive, especially when the dogs are well-socialised and carefully matched. But breed type matters. Behaviour doesn’t happen in a vacuum – it’s shaped by genetics, function, and instinct.

If we ignore those factors, we risk setting our dogs (and ourselves) up to fail.

The best group dog walks aren’t necessarily single-breed – but they are thoughtfully curated. Dogs that share similar arousal levels, compatible play styles, and respect each other’s space tend to settle into a rhythm where everyone benefits. It’s less about rules and more about relationships.

Our Gundog Walks – Designed With Your Dog in Mind

At Dogs Be Dogs, our gundog walks are built around what makes your dog tick – their instincts, needs, and personality. They’re purposeful, professionally run outings designed specifically for gundog breeds and their crosses, including Labradors, retrievers, Cockapoos, Labradoodles, and other gundog types like spaniels and HPRs.

We pick up from Caversham, Tilehurst, and Calcot, and all our walks are held in a secure, private 15-acre field. This gives the dogs the space and safety they need to fully enjoy time to play and time to train — without the unpredictability of public parks.

Walks are run by Ian, an experienced gundog trainer, and each one blends opportunities for recall, focus, and engagement practice with safe, compatible play and the freedom to express natural behaviours in a way that’s enriching, safe, and satisfying.

Every dog is carefully matched to the right group based on compatibility, temperament, and energy – not just availability. This means they get the kind of walk that supports their instincts, emotions, and overall wellbeing – and avoids them rehearsing behaviours you’d rather they didn’t repeat.

Want Your Dog to Love Their Walks – and Come Home Calm and Content?

Our gundog walks aren’t just about exercise – they’re about matching your dog with companions who speak their language, in a space where they can truly relax and enjoy themselves.

The result?

A calmer, happier dog at home.
Fewer post-walk behavioural hiccups.
Peace of mind knowing they’re safe, stimulated, and supervised.
No unwanted behaviours being practised on repeat.

�� Fill in our quick dog walking questionnaire to see if your dog is the right fit.

Prefer to chat first? Just drop us an email info@dogsbedogs.co.uk – we’re always happy to talk through how it works.

Have You Noticed Your Dog’s Preferences?

Every dog is different – some thrive in lively groups, while others prefer calm company or one-on-one interactions. You might have already spotted patterns in how your dog responds to certain breeds, play styles, or energy levels.

Noticing who your dog gravitates towards – and who they avoid – can tell you a lot about what they need from a walk.

If you’re unsure what group dynamic suits them best, we can help match them to a walking crew where they’ll thrive.

Because the right walk doesn’t just make a difference to your dog’s day – it makes a difference to yours too.

Too Hot to Walk Your Dog? Signs of Heatstroke and What to Do Instead.

Mon, 30 Jun 2025 14:55:01 GMT

How Hot is Too Hot? What Every Dog Owner Should Consider...

Too Hot to Handle? Your Guide to Heatstroke in Dogs (And What to Do Instead of Walking)

As the summer heats up, we start reaching for the suncream and iced coffee — but what about our dogs?

Heatstroke in dogs can develop fast and be fatal if not recognised early. Even the hardiest spaniel or the fittest Labrador is at risk in high temperatures. The good news? With a few tweaks to your routine and some creative enrichment, you can keep your dog safe, stimulated, and happy — without risking their health.

In this blog, we’ll cover:

When it’s too hot to walk your dog
Early signs of heatstroke
What to do if you suspect heatstroke
Safe alternatives to walking in the heat
Cooling treats to help your dog chill out
How our summer classes can help

When is it too hot to walk a dog?

There’s no universal temperature cut-off - it depends on your dog and your situation. But some guidelines can help:

Consider:

Breed, age, and coat - puppies, elderly dogs, brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds, and thick-coated dogs are at higher risk.
Time of day - early morning and late evening are safest. Early afternoon heat can be dangerous, especially if the dog is exercising.
Surface temperature - there is a difference between walking on a grass in the shade or on the pavement in the sun, even if the temperature is the same.
Your dog’s needs - some dogs won’t toilet in the garden, so a short, shaded trip may be necessary - just keep it calm and low-effort.
Level of activity – a gentle sniffy stroll is a world away from a game of fetch or a run.

Using common sense and being guided by your dog and their needs will help.

As I am writing this, I am in my office with the blind down (to keep the sun out) and the fan going (while I often like to work al fresco). So if I am not happy to be out in the heat, we’ll limit dog’s outside time to short toilet breaks.

Early signs of heatstroke in dogs

Recognising the early signs is key to preventing serious outcomes. Based on most up-to-date advice from Royal Veterinary College (RVC), look out for:

Excessive panting
Bright red gums or tongue
Drooling or sticky saliva
Lethargy or confusion
Wobbly or uncoordinated movement
Vomiting or diarrhoea
Refusal to drink or move

If you notice any of these, act immediately.

First Aid: What to do if you suspect heatstroke.

Recent research from the RVC has updated the advice on treating suspected heatstroke.

Do:

Move your dog to a shaded, breezy spot
Pour cold water over them (from the neck down)
If possible, immerse healthy dogs in cold water (e.g. a paddling pool)
Use a fan or breeze to aid evaporation
Offer small sips of water if your dog is conscious
Call your vet immediately, even if symptoms improve

Don’t:

Don’t delay cooling while calling the vet — cool first, transport second
Don’t cover your dog with a wet towel (as it may slow down evaporation/trap the heat)
Don’t pour water over their head (to avoid it getting into their airways)
Don’t assume they’re fine because they “seem OK now”

What to do instead of walks

Hot weather doesn’t mean your dog has to be bored — or bounce off the walls. Here are some safe alternatives that tick the mental stimulation box without overheating your dog:

Food searches in the shade – scatter kibble or treats around a garden or indoors
Find-it games – hide a toy or a ball and let your dog use their nose to hunt it down
Short training sessions indoors – work on recall, name response, or trick training. Three to five minutes is plenty
Fun scentwork – encourages calm focus through sniffing
Teaching them names of different toys and then getting them to find them/retrieve them.

Cooling treats for hot days

Give your dog a safe way to cool off with frozen snacks you can make at home:

Frozen KONGs – fill with wet food, yoghurt, or soaked kibble and freeze
Ice cubes with fruit or veg – try blueberries, carrot, cucumber or apple pieces (no seeds)
Frozen LickiMats – wet food, natural/Greek yoghurt, soaked kibble.
DIY pup ice cream – mash banana, and whatever berries you have in your fridge with natural/Greek yoghurt and freeze in moulds or ice cube trays

Note: If your dog is prone to resource guarding, these types of high-value items may not be suitable, especially if there are children or other dogs around. Supervise closely or skip frozen treats altogether in favour of other enrichment options.

Looking for safe, structured alternatives this summer?

Training doesn’t have to stop for summer — it just needs a smarter approach. If you’re looking for ways to keep your dog mentally stimulated without risking overheating, our summer classes are designed with exactly that in mind.

Here are some top picks (that your dog would choose):

Foundation Gundog Training Tuesdays 6pm or Sundays 11:10am

Perfect to tap into your spaniel’s, cockapoo or labrador’s working instincts, build connection, improve recall and lead walking, and even bringing the ball back!

Progression Gundog Training (for those who have completed foundation).

Warning, it’s addictive!

Puppy off lead recall course – suitable for pups under 8 months of age.

Worried about letting your puppy off lead? This is the course for you!

Recall Workshop (for dogs over 8 months of age, who just need a reminder!)

Short, impactful session that boost response and reduce the stress of unreliable recall.

Click here to view all available classes and book your spot.

Our Gundog and Puppy classes are held in 2 locations - Sulhamstead & Mapledurham. Dogs bring their humans from Reading, Caversham, Henley, Thatcham, Theale Burghfield, Mortimer and surrounding areas.

“I Thought I’d Made a Huge Mistake”: An Honest Letter to New Puppy Owners

Wed, 02 Apr 2025 15:43:06 GMT

I hate my puppy, or Puppy Blues are real! And it's ok to feel that way!

“I Thought I’d Made a Huge Mistake”: An Honest Letter to New Puppy Owners

If you’ve ever found yourself sobbing into a tea towel because your puppy’s drawn blood again with those tiny crocodile teeth, or Googling “is it normal to hate my puppy a little bit” at 2am — you are absolutely not alone.

I’ve been there. With my youngest, Napa, I vividly remember standing in the kitchen, crying in pain from another bite, frustrated beyond belief, wondering how on earth something so small could flip my life upside down so completely. I loved her — of course I did — but in those early days, I didn’t always like her very much. And the guilt that came with that? Awful.

Napa’s now 3.5 years old, and she’s the most wonderful, sensitive, and clever girl. But those early days? Oh, they were rough. If you’re in that stage now — the sticky, shouty, messy, confusing bit — this blog is for you.

“This Isn’t What I Signed Up For…”

You probably pictured bringing your puppy home and having snuggles on the sofa, peaceful walks, sleepy evenings. Instead, you’re living with:

Puppy biting that hurts and makes you feel resentful
Toileting accidents that leave your house smelling... let’s just say, “lived in”
Broken sleep and constant second-guessing
Kids crying because the puppy nipped again , and a growing sense that maybe you’ve made a terrible mistake

It’s not just exhausting — it’s lonely . Everyone else seems to be managing. Social media is full of adorable puppy reels and #blessed captions. And here you are, trying not to cry because you’ve just stood in another puddle barefoot and the sofa’s been chewed.

Let’s Talk About Puppy Biting…

This is the one that breaks people. I get messages almost daily saying, “I just don’t like my puppy at the moment — I feel awful admitting it.” And most of the time, it’s biting at the heart of it.

With Napa, I remember crying after she bit me hard enough to draw blood. It’s not just the pain — it’s the frustration. You feel like you’ve done something wrong. You start resenting them. And it’s not the bonding experience you were promised.

But here’s what I know now: puppies bite when their needs aren’t being met .

When Napa was at her bitey worst, I started running through a checklist in my head:

Is she tired and overtired like a grumpy toddler?
Is she hungry — even if she just ate, has she burnt it all off with zoomies?
Does she need the toilet ?
Is she thirsty ?
Has she had any mental stimulation , or have we been firefighting all day?

Often, meeting that unmet need reduces biting dramatically.

And when it is play? That’s natural. But I always made sure our play involved toys that kept my hands safe — long tuggies, big plushy toys, anything that let her chew and chase without nipping me. Your hands should never be the toy.

If she got too wound up, we’d have a gentle reset. A short break, a natural chew, some time in a quiet space. Not a punishment — just a pause to help her nervous system calm down.

“I’ve Tried Everything… Nothing’s Working”

Most of the puppy owners I meet have already been through the rabbit hole of Google, YouTube, dog owner forums, and TikTok trends. Everyone has an opinion — and they all contradict each other.

Add in advice from breeders, friends, your neighbour’s brother who once had a Labrador… and it’s no wonder you're overwhelmed. You feel pulled in a hundred directions, and your confidence gets chipped away bit by bit.

Then comes the shame: “Why am I struggling when everyone else seems fine?”

But here’s the truth: they’re not fine either. They’re just not talking about it.

You’re Not Failing – You Just Need Support

Puppyhood is hard . Not because you’re not good enough — but because you’re learning how to communicate with a totally different species during the most sensitive stage of their development.

And they didn’t come with an instruction manual.

But this is what I do. I make sense of the madness. I help you see the world through your puppy’s eyes — so you can start enjoying each other again. My methods are kind, simple, science-backed, and genuinely doable — even on four hours of sleep and with Weetabix in your hair.

What Working With Me Looks Like

My puppy classes aren’t about churning through commands. They’re designed to help you and your puppy connect .

Yes, we teach the essentials — recall, lead walking, settling, polite greetings — but we also:

Practise off-lead recall in a secure 15-acre field
Support safe, structured puppy socialisation
Help you understand puppy body language and emotions
Answer all your questions — even the ones you’re embarrassed to ask

They’re fun, friendly, and judgement-free. You’ll meet other owners who get it, and leave each week feeling lighter, more confident, and actually excited to train your puppy again.

I also offer puppy home visits, before, during or after your puppy attended classes.

To read my recent blog on why puppy classes are important , click here .

From Crying Over a Food Bowl to Changing Lives

I started this business because of a very different puppy — my first, Nika. I was told by our trainer to “show her I’m the boss” by taking her food away. It backfired terribly. She began guarding her bowl, growling, even biting. We didn’t know what we were doing. It took years, and the help of a qualified behaviourist, to rebuild trust.

That experience was heartbreaking — but it was also the beginning of something much bigger. I knew then I wanted to help others avoid the same mistakes. So now, I teach prevention, not punishment. Support, not shame.

You and Your Puppy Deserve to Enjoy Each Other

If you’re feeling overwhelmed, guilty, or like you’ve made a huge mistake — you haven’t. You’re just in the trenches. And I can help you out of them.

Whether you’re in Reading, Caversham, Burghfield, Henley or Mortimer — we’ve got friendly, expert puppy classes with rolling start dates, so you never have to wait for support.

Come and join us. Let’s get you and your puppy back on the same team.

Found this helpful? Share with other puppy owners that might be struggling!

�� Find out more about our puppy classes
�� Need Urgent in-home support with your puppy - email us info@dogsbedogs.co.uk — no judgement, just support.

My Favourite Off-the-Beaten-Track Dog Walks in Berkshire & Oxfordshire

Wed, 26 Mar 2025 16:13:43 GMT

Perfect for dogs that find the world a bit much, and humans who feel the same sometimes.

My Top 10 Quiet Countryside Walks in West Berkshire and Oxfordshire for You and Your Dog

Let’s face it – not every dog wants to play chase with every other dog they meet, and not every owner wants a walk that feels like the M25 in rush hour. Sometimes you just want to escape into nature with your dog, soak up some quiet, and enjoy a moment of calm. Especially if you’re working on training or your dog finds the hustle and bustle a bit much.

These are some of the best dog-friendly walks in West Berkshire and Oxfordshire, ideal for reactive dogs, young pups, or anyone who just enjoys a quiet countryside wander. I’ve included where to park and what makes each walk worth the trip. Whether you’ve got a young pup still learning the ropes, a reactive dog who needs space, or you just fancy a proper countryside ramble – I’ve got you covered.

If your dog’s recall is a work in progress or you just want a bit more confidence before heading somewhere new, we’ve got recall workshops and 1-2-1 support that can help. But if you're ready for an adventure – let's dive in.

So if you’ve exhausted your local rec, are bored of Bug’s Bottom or Clayfield, or just fancy a weekend adventure – read on!

1. Bottle and Glass – Woodland walk (South Oxfordshire)

Parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/f2uyFhiKaix9vCa36
Why I love it: The walk begins and ends at a charming countryside pub! They have ample parking, poo bins and plenty of footpaths to explore. The terrain can be a little bit challenging and it does get muddy in the winter, but it's my go-to for a nice long walk with a stop at the pub to warm up at the end.

2. Shiplake Thames Path (South Oxfordshire)

Parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/B4HjuDHbfgdw43dn9
Why I love it: If your dog loves to swim – this is my ultimate walk! You need to watch out for boats though. There are two walks from this parking spot – heading right towards the river (signposted Public Footpath) takes you past Shiplake College. I recommend keeping dogs on lead here – their rowing club is based along the path, and retriever-types may find the stray socks and shoes hard to resist! Luckily it’s only about 100 metres before you’re out of the temptation zone.

Another option is to continue straight (signposted as Restricted Byway) to the end of Mill Lane and through the gate. The footpath takes you across the field to the river. Check for livestock, as there are sometimes cows or sheep in the field. Once by the river, turn left and you’ll find a sandy ‘beach’ (okay, it’s about 5 metres wide, but still perfect for a paddle!).

3. Mapledurham Estate (South Oxfordshire)

Parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/7RVNBgZTmhBbepQm7
Why I love it: If you’re up for a longer walk, this is a great place to explore. Public footpaths are clearly signposted, but an Ordnance Survey map can come in handy – the estate is vast, and not all fields have public rights of way. Worth the effort for the views and the variety.

4. Ufton Park (West Berkshire)

Parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/RoB3RwxLxooZqkAt7
Why I love it: We call it the Magical Woods! Parking is in a small lay-by (please never block gates), and public footpaths head off on both sides of the road. There are a few ponds, so be mindful of blue-green algae in summer. Lots of gravelled paths mean it’s usually less muddy than other spots.

5. Benyon’s Enclosure (West Berkshire)

Parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ec6f4W2QPuqh5A6z9
Why I love it: Gorgeous views and well-marked footpaths. There’s a big pond – again, check for algae in summer. Occasionally there are sheep in adjoining fields, so always check before letting dogs off-lead. Nice and shady, so a good choice for warm days.

6. Wokefield Common (West Berkshire)

Parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Wra2qNHMy9V26FmC7
Why I love it: Easy parking and beautiful woodland trails you can get lost in (in a good way). This was my sanctuary during multiple lockdowns – it absolutely kept me sane! There’s a signposted circular walk that’s about a mile and pushchair-friendly, starting at the car park. Venture further and there are some steep hills too.

7. Greenham Common (West Berkshire)

Parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/ufYdHWHQUsv55PaE9
Why I love it: Free lay-by parking (or a café car park on the other side: https://maps.app.goo.gl/D5WGoGr4r6y6tbmL6) . Mostly gravel paths, so even if the dogs get muddy, you’ll stay fairly clean. There are a few good spots for a paddle, though they can dry up in summer. It gets busier here, so I prefer it for a relaxed family stroll rather than a training walk.

8. Mortimer Spring (West Berkshire)

Parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/mCLvNS7J6DQi5A1r8
Why I love it: One of my absolute favourite walks when I can’t ‘people’ anymore! Great visibility and several paths to choose from. There’s a spring that runs through it, so dogs can paddle and drink along the way. Bonus: there’s a hidden tree swing somewhere on this walk – let me know if you find it! Also fab for blackberry picking in late summer.

9. Crowsley Park (South Oxfordshire)

Parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/68EEA7KHRQ7eEjbL7
Why I love it: Small lay-by for parking, and a few steps to climb to get into the park. Great visibility and semi-secure – most of it is fenced (or at least used to be!), so it feels fairly safe for dogs with decent recall. Quiet and peaceful with lovely views.

10. Bucklebury Common (West Berkshire)

Parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Dzv8Qp1f8rT73Ug8A
Why I love it: Shady and cool on warm days, with several ponds dotted around (always check for algae in the summer). There’s a mix of woodland, open space and varied terrain – it’s great for scentwork games and letting your dog explore at their own pace.

Want to make the most of dog walks in Berkshire and Oxfordshire?

These routes are brilliant for calm, connection-based walks – perfect for practising recall, loose-lead walking, or just letting your dog decompress. If you’re looking for more support, structure or just want to learn how to get the best out of your dog on walks, we offer 1-2-1 sessions in either our training field or on your regular walks!

And if you try any of the walks above – I’d love to see! Tag us in your photos or stories.

#dogfriendlywalks #westberkshiredogs #oxfordshiredogwalks #quietdogwalks #dogsbedogs #reactivedogs #gundogtraining #dogtrainerberkshire

Why Puppy Training is More Than Just Sit & Stay – The Essential Skills Every Puppy Needs

Sat, 22 Feb 2025 13:32:36 GMT

Discover why early puppy training goes beyond obedience commands and how it helps prevent behaviour problems, build confidence, and create a well-mannered dog for life.

Why Puppy Training is More Than Just Sit & Stay

Your puppy is bouncing around the house, stealing socks, nipping at your hands, and zooming around just as you’re trying to relax. You tell them to “sit” - and for a second, they do - before launching off again like a tiny tornado. You wonder: why won’t they just listen?

Many new puppy owners think training is just about teaching “sit” and “stay.” But real training goes far beyond commands - it’s about creating a puppy who knows how to listen, even when they’re excited, distracted, or out in the real world.

The truth is, puppies are always learning, whether you’re actively training them or not. The question is: are they learning the right things?

In this blog, we’ll break down what good puppy training should include, why waiting too long can create unwanted habits, and how early training can prevent future behavioural problems.

What Does Puppy Training Actually Teach?

It’s not just about commands - it’s about life skills. Here’s what good puppy training includes and why it matters:

1. Confidence & Social Skills (Not Just Meeting Other Dogs!)

Many owners think socialisation means taking their puppy to the nearest park to “meet as many dogs as possible.” But this can actually backfire - overwhelming puppies or encouraging bad habits like overexcitement in the presence of other dogs.

Good socialisation isn’t about quantity; it’s about quality. Carefully introducing your puppy to new experiences in a way that builds confidence helps them learn to handle the world calmly.

What good social skills look like:

Getting used to new sights, sounds, and experiences without it being too overwhelming.
Building confidence around people, including vets and groomers.
Learning to settle in public places instead of getting overexcited.
Being able to focus on you, even when there are other dogs and people around.

It’s not about flooding your puppy with experiences - it’s about making those experiences positive and manageable.

2. Preventing Future Behavioural Issues (Because Puppies Grow Up!)

Many common behaviour problems in adult dogs - pulling on the lead, barking at guests, ignoring recall - start in puppyhood. The problem? Many owners don’t realise these behaviours are developing until they become habits.

Think of it this way: You wouldn’t wait until your child is a teenager before teaching them manners. The same applies to puppies.

What good training teaches:

Walking nicely on the lead before pulling becomes a habit.
Developing a strong recall before they learn that running off is fun.
Practising calm greetings so they don’t jump up at visitors.

Starting early makes everything easier in the long run.

3. Helping Puppies Regulate Their Emotions (Avoiding the Overexcited or Nervous Dog)

Most puppies don’t come with an “off switch.” They get overexcited, struggle with frustration, or have zoomies before bedtime. But calmness is a learned skill - not something puppies just grow into.

What good training teaches:

Learning to settle at home and in public.
Managing excitement without jumping or mouthing.
Handling frustration without barking or grabbing things.

A calm dog isn’t just born - it’s made through consistent training, right experiences and setting them up for success from the start.

4. Understanding Body Language & Communication (So You Know What Your Puppy is Saying!)

Puppies don’t misbehave to be “naughty” - they behave in ways that make sense to them. The challenge is that we often misinterpret what they’re trying to communicate.

What good training teaches owners:

Recognising when a puppy is overstimulated and needs a break.
Understanding the difference between play and frustration.
Recognising early signs of stress and fear.
Knowing what is normal puppy behaviour and what might require intervention.

When you understand your puppy’s signals, training becomes much smoother.

5. Creating a Dog That’s Easy to Live With (Training That Makes Daily Life Better!)

A well-trained puppy isn’t just one that can “sit” and “stay.” It’s a puppy that’s a joy to live with - one that’s calm in the house, walks nicely, and listens when needed.

What good training includes:

Teaching puppies to settle – so you can take them places.
Helping them enjoy handling (so vet visits and grooming aren’t a battle).
Practising impulse control (so they don’t steal food or jump up).

A well-trained puppy doesn’t just make life easier - it makes life more enjoyable.

The Truth About “Waiting Until They’re Older”

One of the biggest myths is that puppies don’t need training until they’re older. But puppies are always learning, whether we’re training them or not.

Why waiting too long can cause problems:

Puppies start developing habits from day one - good or bad.
Adolescent dogs (6+ months) are harder to train than young puppies.
Untrained dogs often become frustrated dogs, which leads to problem behaviours.

Why starting early makes life easier:

You can shape good behaviours before bad habits form.
Puppies who learn early have fewer struggles in adolescence.
Early training makes recall, lead walking, and social skills much easier.

The earlier you start, the easier it is - for both you and your puppy.

Ready to Get Started? Join Our Puppy Classes in Berkshire & Oxfordshire

Every week, we see owners wishing they’d started sooner - because once bad habits form, they’re harder to undo. The good news? You can start setting your puppy up for success today.

Our puppy training classes in Berkshire & Oxfordshire are designed to help you and your puppy learn together in a fun, supportive way.

What makes our classes different?

Rolling start dates - so you can join as soon as you’re ready.
Focus on real-life training beyond just obedience.
Small, supportive groups with qualified, accredited trainers.

Locations:

Mapledurham : Saturday & Sunday mornings.
Sulhamstead : Saturday mornings.

Training should be fun, practical, and stress-free - for both you and your puppy. If you're ready to get started, check availability and book here: https://www.dogsbedogs.co.uk/puppy-classes

Final Thoughts

Puppy training isn’t just about teaching “sit” and “stay.” It’s about shaping a happy, confident, well-mannered dog who fits seamlessly into your life.

By starting early, you’ll make daily life easier, prevent common behaviour problems, and build a stronger bond with your pup.

Want more training tips? Follow us on Facebook and Instagram for puppy advice!

Raising a Well-Behaved Puppy: What Every New Dog Owner Should Know

Fri, 22 Nov 2024 18:26:47 GMT

Tips for raising a puppy for first time puppy owners

Common puppy problems and solutions.

New puppy training tips

Raising a Well-Behaved Puppy: What Every New Dog Owner Should Know

Bringing home a puppy is a rollercoaster of excitement, love, and moments of chaos. Those wagging tails and floppy ears make it all worth it, but if you’re not careful, those innocent antics can quickly develop into habits that aren’t so cute in six months’ time.

As someone who has raised two of my dogs from puppies, bred a litter, and works as a behaviourist, I’ve seen both ends of the spectrum: well-prepared puppy owners who thrive and those who struggle because small issues were overlooked early on. The good news is that a little knowledge and proactive training can make all the difference.

Puppies Are Always Learning: What Are You Teaching Them?

From the moment you bring your puppy home, they’re learning—whether you’re actively teaching them or not. Every interaction shapes their understanding of the world. For instance:

Jumping up for attention? - Your puppy might learn that this is the way to get noticed.

Nibbling on your hands during play? They start to think hands are chew toys (even if you shout ouch, this might get them to think that you squeak too!).

Exploring the bin? - They might decide it’s a treasure trove of delights.

It’s easy to accidentally reinforce these behaviours if you’re not careful. The key is to redirect their energy and enthusiasm into the behaviours you *do* want to see, like sitting calmly for attention or chewing on appropriate toys.

Common Challenges (and How to Overcome Them)

Here’s a closer look at some of the most common puppy problems and practical steps to address them:

1. Puppy Biting: Nipping It in the Bud (pun intended).

Puppy biting is natural—after all, it’s how they explore the world and soothe their teething gums. But it’s not something you want them carrying into adulthood!

What to do:

- Preemptively offer a long toy (store-bought or DIY) before biting starts. Toys that can be animated along the floor and kept away from your hands are ideal. Think fleece tug toys or stuffed socks on a string.

- If your puppy starts to bite, redirect them immediately to the toy. Encourage them to chew the toy instead of your fingers.

- If they continue to bite, calmly remove your attention. Stand up, cross your arms, and turn away. Resume interaction only when they’re calm.

- Never use your hands as toys. Wrestling or play-fighting with your hands might teach them that it’s okay to bite skin.

2. Early Socialisation: Building Confidence Without Overwhelming

Socialisation is about more than meeting other dogs. It’s about exposing your puppy to a variety of sights, sounds, environments, and people in a way that builds their confidence.

What to do:

- Introduce your puppy to new experiences gradually. Start with quieter environments and work up to busier ones.

- Pair potentially scary things, like loud noises or new people, with something your puppy loves—like tasty treats or a fun toy. For example, when your puppy hears a vacuum cleaner, offer a treat to create a positive association.

- Teach your puppy to focus on you in stimulating environments by rewarding them for checking in or making eye contact. This builds trust and helps them navigate the world confidently.

3. Preventing Resource Guarding: Building Trust

Many guardians unknowingly encourage resource guarding by taking things away from their puppy. Imagine if someone kept snatching your snacks away—you’d guard them too!

What to do:

- Teach your puppy that giving up items leads to a reward. Start by approaching them while they chew on something and tossing a high-value treat nearby. Over time, they’ll associate your approach with good things.

- Practise swapping low-value items (like a boring toy) for something better (like a chew or treat). Say, “Drop,” offer the swap, and then return the original item after a few seconds.

Why Puppy Classes Are a Game-Changer:

While you can (and should!) teach your puppy skills like “sit” and “down” at home, there’s something uniquely valuable about attending puppy classes.

In a controlled environment with other puppies, your puppy learns to focus on you despite distractions. This helps build reliability in real-world settings where distractions are inevitable, like parks or cafés.

Plus, having an experienced instructor on hand means someone is watching for behaviours you might miss. For example:

- Is your puppy playing nicely with others, or are they overwhelmed?

- Are they starting to show subtle signs of resource guarding?

- Are they responding appropriately to your cues, or are there gaps in communication?

These insights are invaluable and can help you adjust your approach before small issues become big problems.

Real-Life Examples of Puppy Success

Here are a few scenarios I’ve encountered with clients, and how simple adjustments turned things around:

Shy Around Hands: A puppy who flinched when hands reached toward her was likely overwhelmed. To help, I advised pairing touch with a reward. Every time someone extended a hand toward her, they offered a small treat. Over time, she began associating hands with positive outcomes.

Growling Over Chews: An early sign of resource guarding, this was addressed by tossing high-value treats each time someone approached the puppy with a chew. Gradually, the puppy started looking forward to people approaching.

Crying at Night: A puppy left to “cry it out” in the utility room was moved into a crate next to the guardian’s bed. This allowed them to reassure the puppy and take them out for toilet breaks when needed. Once the puppy was sleeping through the night, they gradually transitioned him back to the utility room.

How Foundations in Puppyhood Prevent Future Issues:

As a behaviourist, I see older dogs with challenges like reactivity, separation anxiety, and resource guarding. So often, these issues could have been avoided with the right foundations in puppyhood. Simple actions—like pairing new experiences with positive associations, teaching trust, and building focus—create a ripple effect that lasts a lifetime.

Join Us for Puppy Classes in Berkshire and Oxfordshire:

Raising a puppy doesn’t have to be overwhelming. Our puppy classes provide hands-on guidance, real-world practice, and personalised advice to set you and your puppy up for success. Whether you’re working on socialisation, polite greetings, or lead walking, we’ve got you covered.

If you’re in Berkshire, Oxfordshire, or nearby areas like Reading, Henley, Caversham, Burghfield Common, or Mortimer, we’d love to welcome you to our classes.

And remember, if you’re facing challenges with an older dog, I also offer behaviour support to help resolve those issues.

Ready to start your puppy training journey? Contact us today, or share this blog with a fellow puppy owner who could use some support!

If you are local to Reading, Berkshire - here is the link to our puppy classes: https://www.dogsbedogs.co.uk/puppy-classes

How to prepare your puppy for their first fireworks season

Wed, 16 Oct 2024 17:49:18 GMT

Safety tips for Fireworks Night

How to Prepare Your Puppy for Their First Fireworks

Fireworks season can be a tricky time for puppies, especially when it’s their first experience of loud bangs and flashing lights. For many, the first time might pass uneventfully, with no signs of fear. But even if your puppy seems fine, it’s important to ensure they associate these sounds positively to avoid fear issues developing later on.

Here’s how to make sure your puppy’s first fireworks are a positive, or at least manageable, experience.

1. Plan to Stay Home

One of the best ways to ensure your puppy doesn’t develop a fear of fireworks is by staying home during their first experience. This way, you’ll be there to comfort them if they need reassurance, and you can control their environment. A loud bang when they’re left alone could leave them feeling frightened and confused, so being present is key.

2. Walk and Tire Your Puppy Out

If you know there will be fireworks in the evening, plan ahead and take your puppy for a walk during daylight hours. This helps avoid the risk of unexpected bangs and gives your puppy a chance to burn off some energy. A mentally and physically tired puppy is more likely to settle in the evening, so combine the walk with some interactive training or play to stimulate their mind.

Games like scent work or puzzle toys can be great ways to engage their brain, leaving them nicely worn out before the fireworks begin.

3. Create Positive Associations

Puppies learn quickly, so their first exposure to fireworks should be paired with something they love. When the bangs start, bring out their favourite toys, chews, or even some special treats. Keep the atmosphere calm and upbeat, so they start to link fireworks with something fun and tasty.

Food-dispensing toys or long-lasting chews are excellent tools. They help distract and engage your puppy while also giving them something positive to focus on.

4. Stay Calm and Offer Comfort

If your puppy seems unsettled and seeks comfort, don’t hesitate to provide it. Some people worry that comforting their dog will “reinforce” the fear, but fear is an emotion, not a behaviour. By being there for your puppy when they need it, you help build their trust and confidence.

After the fireworks are over, it’s a good idea to give your puppy a calm day to decompress. They may be more sensitive to noises or new experiences the following day, so be patient and allow them some quiet time to relax.

5. Safety First

In addition to emotional support, don’t forget practical safety measures:

• Check your garden fences to ensure there’s no way your puppy can escape if they get spooked.

• Keep your puppy on a lead during walks at dusk or even daylight, as unexpected bangs can happen any time.

• Make sure your puppy has up-to-date identification , such as a collar tag with your details, just in case they do run off. Make sure their microchip details are up-to-date!

6. Control the Environment

When you’re expecting fireworks, it’s a good idea to draw the curtains and create a safe, quiet space for your puppy. Having some background noise on, such as the TV, music, or even running a washing machine, can help mask the sounds of fireworks and make the environment feel more secure.

7. Be Mindful of Aftercare

It’s natural for puppies to feel a little on edge after a loud, confusing night. The following day, give them extra time to unwind with calming activities like gentle walks or quiet time at home. Being mindful of their emotional state can help avoid unnecessary stress.

8. Get Extra Support in Puppy Classes

If you’re looking for more guidance, we talk through firework preparation as part of our puppy classes this month. Preparing your puppy for new experiences is something we focus on to help them grow into confident adult dogs. There’s plenty more we can help you with if you’re local to Henley, Caversham, Burghfield Common, or anywhere in Berkshire and Oxfordshire.

Share the Knowledge!

Found these tips useful? Share this blog with fellow puppy owners to help them prepare for fireworks season too!

Puppy Socialisation - Top Tips

Fri, 10 May 2024 17:40:10 GMT

How to get puppy socialisation right from the start

Puppy socialisation - helping you rais a well adjusted adult dog

Socialisation – how to help your puppy grow into a confident adult dog!

The socialisation period in puppies starts at around 3 weeks and finishes at around 12-14 weeks. Most of the socialisation period happens BEFORE puppy is allowed out after the second vaccination, and a lot of it happens while the puppy is still with the breeder!

If your puppy is older than 14 weeks old, don’t panic, you can still make a difference, but you may need to take things a little bit slower.

Before your puppy is fully vaccinated, you shouldn’t take them anywhere they can get exposed to unvaccinated dogs, or where unvaccinated dogs may have fouled.

You also want to avoid farmyards and water (rivers/ponds/canals).

This is a general guide, please speak to your vet to find out what specific risks of diseases are like in your area.

What is socialisation? It is our opportunity to teach your puppy that the world is a safe place, so they shouldn’t worry about ‘weird’ things, like push chairs, runners, other dogs, etc. and an opportunity to teach your puppy how to behave appropriately in the human world.

During this period, puppy’s curiosity outweighs their fear, so it is easier to expose puppies to new sights, sounds, environments, and smells.

Important to remember:

· Quality vs quantity – better to have fewer exposures, but positive ones.

· Socialisation does not equal interaction (very important to teach your puppy that some dogs/people don’t get interacted with; this helps lower frustration when they are older)

What can you do before your puppy is allowed out:

Take your puppy out in your arms or in a puppy sling, so they can experience:

· Traffic

· Farm animals

· Supermarket car park (you can watch the world go by from the car)

· Garden centres

· Dog friendly cafe/pub with your puppy on your lap

· Dog friendly stores (John Lewis)

· Take your puppy on short car journeys (so their experience of car rides does not only result in a trip to the Vet, where they get vaccinated!)

· Friend’s houses

· Garden dates with fully vaccinated dogs

· Invite people to visit your house, so your puppy gets used to guests.

· You can expose your puppy to recordings of noises, such as fireworks (start with a very low volume and gradually increase it to make sure puppy does not get scared).

After the vaccinations, when your puppy is allowed out, get them to experience:

· Seeing different people

· Different dogs

· Take them on public transport

· Take them to the vets for happy visits

· Pet stores

· Enrol them in a puppy class with a positive reinforcement trainer!

When approaching socialisation, think ‘what would I like my adult dog to be OK with?’ and try and get your puppy to experience it in a positive way in their first few weeks with you.

Some people approach socialisation as a tick box exercise, however I find it is more helpful to think about it as presenting a picture to your puppy:

Park/green space/countryside: puppy is off lead or on a long line. This is where we interact with the environment – other dogs, scents; I will play games with my puppy and practice recall. I want my puppy to experience dogs of different shapes and sizes – some of which we will interact with, and some we will just watch from a distance. I want my puppy to learn that dogs come in all shapes and sizes, humans could be walking, running, or riding bikes, children could be playing football, and we may even see horses, cows, or sheep.

Pavement walking/urban walking: Puppy is on a relatively short lead. For me this type of walking is usually to get from A to B. We may encounter traffic, people, other dogs, cats, bikes. I want my puppy to learn that all those things are safe, however we are unlikely to interact with them. Yes, I avoid my puppy interacting with other dogs when on a short lead – this helps to avoid frustration that can lead to reactivity in adolescence.

Cafe/pub/park bench/bus/train: we are stationary and not walking. Puppy is on a lead, and I will always ensure that they have a mat or a blanket they can settle on.

When we are taking our puppy to a cafe or a pub, I want to set them up for success and here we are just watching the world go by, without any direct interactions. I will politely decline people’s requests to say ‘hello’ to my puppy, as I don’t want to set my puppy up to fail, and I want them to learn to settle and relax in those environments.

Puppy classes – I am a dog trainer and I always take my puppy to puppy classes – more than one class, if I can. This is not because I don’t know how to teach my puppy to lie down or to walk on a loose lead, but rather because, for me, this is another picture I am painting for my puppy. When we are in a class environment, we are working together, we are a team, so under these conditions, I want my puppy to learn to pay attention to me, rather than other puppies or people.

Veterinary clinic/Grooming salon – I want my puppy to expect, and be happy with, being handled by different people in this environment! I invest time in taking my puppy to the vets, and booking appointments with vet nurses, so my puppy can have a ‘pretend’ examination with treats and fuss.

Good groomers will offer a puppy package to introduce puppies to grooming and handling in short fun sessions, so this is also a picture I want to paint.

Your lifestyle will determine what pictures your puppy will see often and how you would want them to behave when those particular pictures are painted. So, before you even bring your puppy home, think about what your socialisation needs look like.

My top tip about socialising your puppy is to set up expectations from the outset – so if you don’t want your adult dog to jump up at the waitress in a cafe – don’t let your puppy to do this!

Treats in dog training

Tue, 09 Apr 2024 17:38:48 GMT

How to select the best treat for your puppy!

Treats!

This topic comes up again and again, I have done lives, videos, posts but thought I would also write about it as it keeps coming up!

Treat is the easiest way to reward your puppy or dog for a job well done! The way dogs learn is ‘the behaviour that gets rewarded, gets repeated’ so if we reward the desired behaviours, they are going to happen more frequently!

So far so good, but what is an acceptable treat? Would my dog not get fat if I treat them all the time?

If we were to ask our dogs they would tell us what they view as a treat, what is higher in their hierarchy and what is ‘take it or leave it’. I am going to link a video at the end on how I ask my dogs what they like (let’s just say, Monty didn’t do what I expected him to do!).

All dogs are different and where some might love veggies/fruit, some might think that you are trying to kill them if you offer them a blueberry (so it is definitely not a treat!).

As a rule of thumb (but not always), their daily food is likely to be lower on their priority list than things like freshly cooked chicken or sausages.

So, identifying your puppy’s ultimate reward is the first step to a successful training session.

Then I would look at the difficulty of the behaviour: does sitting in the living room with no distractions have the same difficulty level as recalling from chasing a squirrel or playing with other puppies?

Those two have completely different difficulty levels. Imagine teaching a child their times tables - I would compare sitting in the living room to being able to compute 2x2, and recalling from playing with another puppy to 9x8! Therefore do they deserve a different reward?

I say, yes, absolutely!

So there we have it, we need to have a selection of lower and higher value treats for different situations.

Lower value treats:

Something that your puppy values but maybe doesn’t go completely crazy for. It is something that is very easy to handle and something that does not need to be kept in the fridge, so you can have ‘treat stations’ around the house.

So, for easy behaviours in low distraction environments, we can use part of puppy’s daily food allowance. I recommend to my puppy class attendees (those who feed dry food) to take a handful of kibble from puppy’s daily food allowance and put it in a Tupperware pot to use as treats – these are your absolute guilt free/calorie free (as they are going to be consumed anyway) treats for easy behaviours in low distraction environments.

High value treats:

Something that your puppy really loves and is prepared to work extra hard for. It needs to be something that they don’t get very often, so it is special, like Christmas! These treats are likely to be kept in the fridge, as you are not going to be using too much/too often. These are for difficult behaviours that you want your puppy to be able to do in distracting environments. Think recall away from chasing wildlife/running towards a road – you want the reward to be appropriate for the level of difficulty!

Some of the things that I use as high value treats – cooked meats (think leftover roast), hotdog sausages, cheese, commercial meaty pet treats (we favour JR Pet Products pate at Dogs be Dogs HQ).

So, what makes a good treat?

1. Something that your puppy likes and will work for;

2. Appropriate for the difficulty of the task/level of distraction;

3. Something that is easy to handle;

4. Something that is easy to break into smaller pieces if needed;

5. Something that you can get hold of easily!

Availability and affordability are important when it comes to treats! I am sure my dogs would work very hard for smoked salmon (so would I), but it would not be sustainable. Similarly, I could bake liver cake on a budget, but who really has time to do it often (ever)?

So one of my lifehacks is to check out the deli section of your nearest supermarket for any ‘close to expiry date’ goodies! You can then stick them in the freezer and defrost when needed. Over the years my dogs have had anything and everything from chicken, ham and luncheon meat to corned beef, pastrami, and even prosciutto!

A question that comes up fairly frequently is: “Would my dog not get fat if I feed them all those treats?”. And my answer – no if we are strategic about it! For the situations where we do not need high value treats, using part of puppy daily food allowance (remember those ‘free calories’?) will most likely suffice.

Another solution is using treats that are easily breakable, so you use only tiny pieces!

As a rule of thumb, up to 10% of your dog’s daily food can come from treats (Purina has it on their website, so they can provide a reference for the number ).

And quality is definitely overrules the quantity here (dog’s sense of smell is a lot stronger than ours and their sense of taste is not quite as good). [Horowitz, A. ‘Inside of a dog: what dogs see, smell, and know’, Thorndike Press, 2009.]

So, when it comes to a perfect treat… have a selection of the treats your dog will ‘work’ for, make sure they are easily breakable, use part of their daily food allowance (please note, they do not need to work for every bit of food, just some), and have fun training with your dog!

Here is a video of Monty selecting his favourites. He had a choice of commercial dry treats, cheese, blueberries, wild boar pate, cucumber and corned beef. Place your bets before you watch it what was his least favourite ;)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Ig8OKXIvIg

What is your dog's favourite treat? Let me know!

New puppy class venue in West Berkshire

Thu, 14 Mar 2024 17:15:03 GMT

Dogs be Dogs puppy classes are coming to Sulhamstead, West Berkshire!

New puppy classes venue in West Berkshire!!!!

This news is so exciting, I feel it warrants more than my usual social media post!

For the last six years we have been running puppy classes exclusively from our Mapledurham venue – as when we first started offering classes to new puppy owners, Ian and I lived in Caversham.

Over the years we have had customers travelling to us from not just Berkshire and Oxfordshire, but also from Hampshire, Surrey & Buckinghamshire.

We now have an amazing team of qualified and soon-to-be qualified trainers, who not only share our ethics and passion for force & fear free training, but also have been assisting in and running classes.

The time feels right and we have found an amazing venue – Sulhamstead Village Hall. Now we will be able to offer puppy classes and puppy socialisation sessions local to the puppy owners of West Berkshire (Burghfield, Mortimer, Silchester, Calcot, Tadley, Padworth). Our inaugural class will be held on 6th April!!!

So I thought I share some information about our puppy classes and give you an insight in what happens there.

So what can you expect from our puppy classes?

Our puppy course starts at level 1 and continues through to levels 2 & 3 – each course is four weeks, as we understand that life often gets in the way and it is difficult to commit to a longer course.

This way you get plenty of support with your puppy and can take a break between levels 1, 2 & 3 if you are unable to attend them consecutively.

Our puppy classes have a rolling start date, so you do not need to wait for a particular start date and can jump straight in, once your puppy is able to go out after their vaccination course is complete.

So not only you do not waste any valuable training and socialisation time, but as an added benefit, your puppy will get exposure to more different puppies and people – great for socialisation!

What do we cover in classes?

Each week we cover a different topic, and we try and keep them as close to real life as possible, so your puppy learns valuable life skills!

Recall – one of the most important single skills to teach your puppy! If they come back when you call them, they will go out for more walks, as you will enjoy taking them out, which means you would get out more – so everyone is a winner!

Lead walking – a skill, importance of which is directly related to the size of your dog J

We also cover settling - we have a ‘pub week’ when we teach puppies to settle amongst distractions (and extra curricular practice is encouraged). This is very useful skill to have if you want to take your puppy with you to a pub, dog friendly cafe, or even friends’ house for dinner.

Another very important topic is husbandry – getting puppies used to being handled in preparation for vet and groomers’ visits. We also teach you how to check your puppy’s pulse and other vitals.

We have a meeting people topic, where we teach puppies how to greet (or not greet) people.

We work on ‘drop’ (releasing items), ‘leave’, as well as throwing in some useful tricks for good measure and more!

Who are these classes for?

All puppies (under six months old at the start of level 1) and their humans. We welcome any breed/size of puppies, as long as they have had all their vaccinations. We also do not limit the number of family members who accompany puppy to classes – so the whole family can attend!

Our classes are run by accredited trainers – Tash holds accreditations by APDT, ABTC – ATI, Ian by IMDT, GTA and ABTC-ATI and Sarah is a qualified trainer with IMDT. All three are members of The UK Dog Behaviour and Training Charter.

Why does it matter? It means that not only did we have our skills assessed by the above organisations, but also have to submit evidence of Continuous Professional Development, as well as adhere to their codes of ethics.

We look forward to meeting new puppies and their humans in April!

Resource guarding prevention in puppies

Mon, 19 Feb 2024 17:50:51 GMT

How do I stop my dog from resource guarding?

Resource Guarding Prevention in Puppies

What is Resource Guarding and why is it important to prevent it from developing?

Resource guarding is your dog showing aggression (from growling to snapping and even biting) in the presence of resources, or situations associated with resources.

The resources that your dog may want to defend will vary from a food bowl/food objects to resting spaces, toys, and ‘stolen items’, to name a few.

Resource guarding is actually a pretty normal behaviour – it is natural to want to protect what is valuable to you. We do it as humans – this is why we lock our doors and cars; we don’t want strangers to take our stuff!

Dogs also want to protect what is valuable to them. Those individuals that just let another dog take the food scraps that they found, or kick them out from a safe and comfortable resting place, did not have good odds of surviving natural selection, so protecting valuable resources was really important for survival.

Resource guarding becomes an issue when dogs decide that we are not trustworthy, and resources need to be protected from us.

As you can imagine, a dog that growls, snaps or bites presents a real safety concern, and this is definitely one of those situations where prevention is better than cure.

We can teach our puppies from the start that bringing things to us is better than running away with them. We can also teach our puppies that when we are approaching them when they have something nice, we are going to add something even better!

All puppies can guard valuable resources, however from experience, gundog breeds and gundog crossbreeds have often been bred to retrieve, and may value the possession more than some other breeds.

The more important food is to your puppy (let’s say your puppy has come from a large litter, where competition for food may have been higher), the more likely they are to view it as a valuable resource. It does not necessarily mean that they are going to guard it, however it somewhat stacks the odds…

Outside of food, when puppies guard seemingly random (usually stolen) objects, it quite often begins with us inadvertently adding value to the treasure; Puppy picks something up, we are not sure what it is, and our initial reaction is ‘OMG what have you got puppy?!’, leading to us chasing the puppy around, holding them down, opening their mouth and fishing out whatever is in there – a bit of wood, a tissue, a feather, or whatever else a puppy can lay their teeth on!

What is the puppy learning in this situation? Humans take ‘treasures’ off me, so I better keep away when they approach, and then it may escalate.

How can we tell if the puppy is guarding?

Some of the classical signs are:

· Freezing (when you approach them when they have food/edible chews or a ‘stolen’ object.

· Accelerated consumption – this can be relevant to edible, and even not-so-edible, objects

· Growling (you may also see your dog giving you ‘whale-eye’ – when the whites of your dog’s eyes are visible)

· Snarling – showing teeth

· Air snapping – your dog didn’t miss you, they deliberately missed you! That was a warning!

· Inhibited bite – teeth on skin but no damage done

· You can imagine the rest…

What can we do to prevent resource guarding in puppies?

My Resource Guarding prevention Do’s:

1. Encourage them to bring items to you! Make sure your puppy has plenty of toys/legitimate items they can pick up. Every time your puppy picks up an item, praise them and encourage them to bring it to you without taking it away.

2. Establish a positive association with approach! Every time you approach your puppy when they are eating, call their name and toss a higher value treat towards them. At other times, just let your puppy eat in peace.

Please note, you don’t have to be too close to your puppy, it’s the approach that matters.

This is very important if your puppy finds food valuable.

3. Teach a ‘Drop’ cue – we teach it in our Level 1 Puppy Classes. This is for emergencies.

4. Make it easy for your puppy to get it right! Move anything that you don’t want your puppy to pick up out of their reach. Make toys available and fun to pick up by regularly rotating them and engaging with your puppy when they do pick up the ‘right’ thing.

My Resource Guarding prevention Don’ts:

1. No Punishment or Physical Force

Don’t take stuff away from your puppy, unless their life depends on it. If you do, you are more likely to make them wary of your approach, they may even consume the items quicker to prevent you from taking it.

2. Taking Away Items Without a Trade! If I really need to get something from my puppy before I’ve taught them a reliable ‘drop’, I will swap it for a nice treat or toy.

3. Messing with your puppy’s food while they are eating! It may or may not backfire, however stroking the puppy or handling their food while they are eating is not very helpful (your puppy doesn’t know what your intentions are when you are stroking them when they have a chew). Adding something better to their food bowl is more effective.

4. Ignoring Early Warning Signs! If your puppy tenses up when you approach them while they are eating, or runs away with the stolen treasures, and even growls when you approach them when they have a chew – don’t ignore it!

If in doubt, please consult a qualified professional.

Please note, this blog is aimed at a prevention of resource guarding in puppies. If your adult dog is displaying signs of resource guarding – please seek help from a qualified professional!

Puppies first Christmas

Wed, 13 Dec 2023 16:27:36 GMT

3 tips for a stress free Christmas with your puppy!

I love Christmas! The tree, the lights, the presents, the food, the drinks! Chocolate for breakfast, seeing family and all the turkey you can eat!

I want my dogs to be a part of Christmas fun, but also keep them, and everyone else safe and happy!

So here are my top three tips to keep everyone content around this Festive season, with a bonus of a training video on how to teach your puppy to settle (link to the video is at the bottom)!

1. *Festive Decor Dos and Don'ts:*

When decking the halls, it's essential to keep your pup's safety in mind. Make sure to position toxic plants (poinsettia, for example), somewhere where you puppy cannot get to. Plus, remember to keep those chocolates, mince pies, nuts (macadamia nuts to be precise), alcohol and sweets out of their reach!

To keep your tree and the ornaments safe – consider dusting off that puppy playpen that you had when they were young, and putting it around your tree.

2. *Mindful Mingle Management:*

Hosting gatherings can be exciting but overwhelming not just for humans, but for dogs too! Help your dog feel at ease by setting up a peaceful retreat area away from the hustle and bustle. Provide a cosy bed, their favourite toys, and some calming background music. You can help them settle with a stuffed Kong or a long lasting chew. Encourage guests to respect your pup's space and avoid overwhelming them with constant attention. A little mindful management goes along way in keeping everyone happy.

3. *Creating Calm with Mat Settling:*

This is one of my favourite exercises to teach, because it has so many uses!

Kids opening presents - your puppy can settle on the mat; cooking and serving Christmas dinner - your dog can be on the mat. Loading the dishwasher and don't want your dog helping with 'prewash' - again, mat settling could be the answer.

But the benefits don't stop there! Mat settling can also be a saving grace when tidying up, taking a leisurely walk to the pub on Boxing Day, or visiting family during that in-between period before New Year.

To help you get started, we've prepared a video tutorial on teaching reliable mat settling. Simply click below to watch to begin this valuable training.

Mat Settling Training Video

Bull breed addict

Fri, 13 Oct 2023 16:10:10 GMT

Top tips for bull-breed owners from Sarah

Bull Breed Addict

I love all dogs. From working with so many of your pups with Dogs be Dogs I have added a much broader variety of breeds to the list that I would like to own, much to my husband’s dismay. But I ADORE bull breeds. Large or small, it doesn’t matter, they just put a smile on my face.

If you have never owned or been around one, you may not understand the attraction, especially given the media coverage over the last 30 years. In my experience, bull breeds are the biggest comedians, affectionate, tenacious, and a huge part of the family. If you like a dog to be independent, then a bull breed is definitely not for you, think not even being able to go to the toilet in peace! They love to be with you, it doesn’t matter where you are going or what you are doing, as long as they can come. A good walk and then home to have a cuddle on the sofa in the winter, or a sunbathe in the garden in the summer (I forgot to mention that they are solar powered!) would be a perfect day for one of these guys.

Being a dog owner is a huge responsibility and this is heightened when you own a bull breed or other large breed, because of their strength and potential power, but this is no different to someone owning a powerful sports car or a superbike, it is about being a responsible owner/driver. This begins with the research you do in finding a reputable breeder who is breeding for the correct reasons and then the training you do with your puppy to set them up to be a confident and happy adult dog.

With the upcoming ban on XL bullies, and a potential for even more focus on bull breeds in general, it is even more important that our amazing bull breeds are showing off how awesome they really are. I started thinking of ways to keep our dogs safe and for members of the public to notice how well behaved they are. To be honest, I would do these irrelevant of the breed that I owned as they are just good life skills for a dog in general, but they could be especially helpful given the current circumstances.

Teach a check in with me (give me eye contact) every time they see another dog, especially if the other dog is loose and mine is on her lead. This can diffuse any excitement and prevent a more direct and confrontational approach as my dog is orientating to me and not the other dog. I also think some dogs are intimidated by the wide and forward stance of our bullies; with their head turned towards us, this isn’t so pronounced.

I do lots of sniffing exercises with my dog to tire her brain but also to reduce any stress hormones and promote calmness. She then takes this out on the road and sniffs every blade of grass. This puts a lot of dogs off approaching her anyway as her head is in a bush! She is also given regular natural chews. Chewing releases happy hormones into their brains.

Teach “Let’s go!”. If there is a situation that you want to get out of quickly, or something that you want to pass quickly without your dog stopping, we can teach a "let’s go" cue to tell our dog to follow us this way quickly.

I don’t put my dog in certain situations; if there are multiple dogs loose in a field or park playing together, we go quietly around the outside. As humans we do not like every other human that we meet, we find some too overpowering, annoying or intimidating. Dogs are the same and may not like every other dog they meet. Why would I potentially put my dog in a position where she feels the need to tell another dog (appropriately) to back off and risk the potential judgement and issues that comes with?

My dog has her friends that she knows well and plays with off-lead, but I have taught her to be able to ignore strange dogs and just walk quietly by them. We can’t predict another dogs' behaviour or reaction to our dog. Let’s not put our bullies in an awkward position.

Puppy Biting SOS

Tue, 08 Aug 2023 10:53:53 GMT

Help! My puppy turned into a shark!

Puppy Biting 101

· Meet your puppy’s needs

· Sleep – young puppies need to sleep 16-18 hours a day (tired puppies are cranky!)

· Food – does your puppy become more ‘bitey’ close to meal times? Check the amount you are feeding is adequate to your puppy’s age and weight; how many times a day do your feed your puppy? Puppies under 3 months old would benefit from 4 meals a day, puppies 3-6 months old will benefit from 3 meals a day.

· Thirst – puppies should have access to fresh clean water 24 hours a day, they may forget where their water bowl is (especially if they are playing), so make sure there is a water bowl in every room your puppy hangs out in.

· Toileting – some puppies might bite when they need a toilet, keeping a toileting diary will help to identify this!

Puppy Biting Do's:

· Teach your puppy what is acceptable to bite – toys!

· Puppies need to play, so schedule short play sessions into your day.

· Play by the rules:

· Start play BEFORE your puppy starts biting.

· Play with long toys (so those sharp teeth are away from your hands)

· Those long toys are special! They are only available during interactive play sessions and do not live in your puppy’s toy box.

· Don’t play for too long – 2-3 minutes will be enough for young puppies.

· Finish play with a calming activity.

· Have a selection of toys that your puppy can pick up – praise your puppy whenever you notice them picking up a toy. Have a variety of shapes and textures.

· Rotate your puppy’s toy every few days to maintain novelty

· Make sure you check your puppy’s toys for signs of damage and remove them, should they become unsafe for your puppy.

3 Calming activities:

· Sniffing (snuffle mats, scatterfeeding)

· Chewing (edible and non-edible chews)

· Licking (Kongs, likimats)

Try and utilise your puppy’s daily food allowance for these activities.

4 Have a Zen Zone

A room where you want to relax and watch TV in is NOT the room to play with your puppy in.

5 In the moment, If the puppy bites you:

· Stop (if you can), movement is more likely to excite your puppy and they will bite more.

· Call away – if there is another family member there, they can call puppy to them (they can then reward the recall and redirect puppy onto an alternative activity)

· Ask the puppy to perform a known behaviour, a ‘sit’, for example, (if no-one else is available) – you can then reward the sit and redirect puppy to a different activity (a toy or drop a few biscuits on the floor).

Avoid these common mistakes:

· Shouting ‘ouch’ or ‘no’ – a lot of puppies will find it exciting!

· Allowing puppy to bite hands in play (long toys will help with that)

· Play with puppy when they are overtired (choose a calming activity instead).

Prevention of Separation Anxiety in Puppies

Wed, 05 Jul 2023 12:59:43 GMT

How and When to Introduce and Build on Alone Time

Prevention of Separation Anxiety in Puppies: How and When to Introduce and Build on Alone Time

As someone who spends a lot of time helping guardians of dogs with Separation Related Behaviours, I wanted to highlight some of the key principles, but also misconceptions about teaching dogs to spend time alone.

Bringing home a new puppy is an exciting time, but it can also be very stressful, even for experienced owners!

One of the reasons is, that when it comes to puppies, everyone seems to have an opinion, internet is filled with conflicting advice, which often makes it difficult for new puppy guardians to know what is the right thing to do, when it comes to teaching your puppy to spend time alone.

Do you let your puppy sleep in the bedroom, do you sleep downstairs with them, or will you be making a ‘rod for your own back’? Is ‘starting as you mean to go on’ and having them in the kitchen overnight a right thing to do?

Do you leave them alone from day one, so they get used to it?

Even without the background in dog behaviour, if we think about it, young puppies need their human to be available to meet their basic needs during those early stages of their development. In free ranging dogs, puppies rely on their mum for survival way beyond 8 weeks of age, which is typically when we bring them home, so it is only fair that we respond to their vocalisations and meet their needs (safety, food, water, social contact).

This blog will guide you through the process of introducing and building on alone time to prevent separation anxiety in your puppy.

Step 1: Let Your Puppy Follow You and Build a Secure Attachment

Before introducing alone time, it's crucial to let your puppy follow you around and develop, what we refer to, a secure attachment. This means allowing the puppy to be by your side as you go about your daily activities. This constant proximity helps your puppy feel safe and secure, building trust and strengthening the bond between you and your pup. Making sure that your puppies needs are met, are absolutely paramount! Do not let your puppy ‘cry it out’, they need to know that you will come back and meet their needs.

When I bring a young puppy home, they sleep in the bedroom or I sleep downstairs with me, and then gradually transitioning (if appropriate) to either them sleeping downstairs, or me gradually moving upstairs when they are ready.

Step 2: Gradually Introduce Short Periods of Alone Time

Once your puppy is confident that their needs will be met, it's time to gradually introduce alone time. Start with short intervals of going out of sight, while your puppy can still follow you. For example, go and get something from the kitchen, or ‘make a meal’ out of making a cup of tea (go and put the kettle on, return, go and get the mug out of the cupboard – return and so on).

Begin with just a few seconds and gradually increase the duration as the puppy becomes less inclined to follow you. You may get to make that cup of tea in one go!

This is all without leaving the house, and very important that your puppy is able to follow you, so they know where you are.

This is all about building puppy’s confidence that you will return before they need you!

Step 3: Create Positive Associations with Alone Time

To prevent separation anxiety, it's important to create positive associations with alone time. Before leaving your puppy alone, provide them with a special treat or a favourite toy. This helps them associate your departure with something positive and enjoyable. Additionally, consider leaving on some background noise, like radio or a white noise machine – this is not to trick your puppy into thinking that you are still home, but to somewhat mask sudden noises from outside, that may startle your puppy otherwise.

Step 4: Gradually Increase Alone Time Duration

As your puppy becomes more comfortable being alone, gradually increase the duration of their alone time, and when I say gradually, I mean GRADUALLY – think seconds, not minutes. Step outside and come back, walk down to the end of your drive, come back, go and get something out of the car – come back. This way your puppy also gets used to the departure cues (grabbing keys, putting shoes on, without being overwhelmed).

Step 5: Get all the help you can!

Neighbours, friends, especially working from home, could all make wonderful puppy sitters! It can be overwhelming in the first few weeks, so the more ‘hands on deck’ you have, the better!

When can you actually leave them alone to go and get a pint of milk (bottle of wine) from the shop, will depend entirely on your puppy, however as a guideline, I wouldn’t be expecting any serious duration until at least 5-6 months of age!

For every story of a puppy who ‘has been OK with being left from day one’, there are dozens of dogs that do not cope with being left…

This is one of those cases where prevention is certainly easier than cure, even though it requires a gradual and patient approach. By allowing your puppy to follow you, building a secure attachment, and introducing alone time gradually, you can help them develop confidence and independence. With time, patience, and understanding, you can set your puppy up for success and prevent separation anxiety in their future.

Please note, this is for puppies and dogs that do not already suffer with separation related behaviours. If your puppy or dog is struggling to cope with being left – please seek professional help.

Gundogs in pet homes

Tue, 10 Jan 2023 18:18:09 GMT

Top tips for living in harmony with your pet Gundog

With Labradors and Cocker Spaniels being two of the top three most popular breeds in the UK, I wanted to share some information about gundogs that may help you understand them a little bit more, and make your life with them more fulfilling.

Gundogs are a group of hunting dogs that have been developed over the centuries to assist hunters to find, flush and retrieve game (mainly birds). We bred them to have strong work ethics, stamina and determination.

Labradors, spaniels, pointers, retrievers, and their cousins – cockerpoos, labradoodles, springadors, sprockers – all have in their DNA a desire to hunt and/or pick up and carry.

Giving your dog a ‘job to do’ that fulfils that innate need to search and pick up, will help with the prevention of many potential issues – from your spaniel going ‘self-employed’ hunting, to your retriever developing a shoe fetish.

The good news is, you don’t have to go on a shoot to fulfil those needs, and retrieving dummies or balls is a good alternative to birds.

These are the things that I always recommend to my clients who share their home with gundogs:

Rather than fighting against their instincts – work with them – your dog is likely to pick things up, it is in their DNA, so make sure they have plenty of toys to pick up. When they pick up a toy, praise them, tell them how smart they look carrying a toy (trust me, they look much better when they are carrying a toy, than your sunglasses!).

Teach them to retrieve and drop/release items (if your puppy picks up a sock, they are unlikely to place it in the laundry basket, so I would rather they brought it to you than ingesting it).

If they have picked up the ‘wrong’ thing, rather than creating a fun game of ‘keep-away’ by chasing your dog around the house for 20 minutes, run to the fridge instead, and swap the item for a piece of cheese and continue to work on teaching them to drop/release.

Hunt together, so they learn that hunting next to you is awesome – hide a tennis ball in the long grass, search for it together, drop a few treats in the short grass, and ask your dog to find them.

Avoid ‘free hunting’ – if your dog is having fun away from you, that is where they are going to seek the fun next time. I use a long line throughout adolescence to make sure my teenage gundogs do not learn how great it is to flush pheasants in the next field, while I am building value in hunting close to me.

Gundogs have been bred to retrieve, so as tempting as it might be to get a ball launcher and spend an hour at lunchtime throwing the ball for them to chase, a much better activity would be for them to search for that ball in the long grass using their nose.

12 essentials you need before bringing puppy home

Mon, 23 Aug 2021 17:14:07 GMT

New puppy essentials

The Puppy is out of the bag! Meet Napa, our new Stabyhoun puppy! She is coming home in September from an amazing breeder, who uses Puppy Culture protocols. If you want tips on how to select a good breeder, here is a blog I have written on it: Choosing a Breeder

There are so many very well marketed gadgets on the market, that it can be overwhelming for a new puppy guardian! Do I need this? Do I need this right now? With so much information out there and "stuff" available, I know it can be overwhelming, even for those who've had dogs/puppies before!

Please feel free to share your essentials or ask any questions!

My essentials (I am getting these before puppy arrives):

�� Puppy playpen (so I can set up a safe area for the puppy downstairs - in the room where we will hang out the most)
�� Crates x2 (I prefer to have a crate downstairs for sleeping during daytime and one for upstairs for nighttime sleeping - next to my bed, so should the puppy wake up during the night, she is right next to me)
�� Light collar
�� Harness (my favourites are Perfect Fit and TTouch harnesses), I will buy them as close to the “coming home” date as possible and will ask the Breeder for guidance on the size
�� Lead - a flat (non extendable lead) at least 2 metres long - most leads sold in pet shops are way too short!
�� Food and water bowl (several water bowls in fact)
�� Toys - different textures and sizes - several long toys are a must to prevent puppy biting - I am hoping not to go crazy, as I have 4 dogs and bags and bags of toys, but I am not making any promises!
�� Baby gates (I already have them on most doors), especially if you have a children’s play room where little Lego pieces live!
�� Dog training books - here are some suggestions: Easy Peasy Puppy Squeezy, Perfect Puppy
�� Food - a good breeder will send you home with some good food. Here is a good resource to find the food with the best nutritional value that suits your budget: All About Dog Food
�� Puppy classes! Very important to book sooner rather than later - good classes get booked up weeks if not months in advance (we only have a couple of spots left for September start). Click here to book your puppy class with us Dogs Be Dogs Puppy Classes .
�� Vet - get your puppy registered with your vet of choice (asking friends/family who have dogs for a recommendations is a great starting point), as some of the amazing vets in your area may not be taking on new clients due to high demand

Choosing a Puppy - importance of the Breeder

Tue, 01 Dec 2020 19:19:34 GMT

Tips on choosing a good breeder for your new puppy

You are getting a puppy! ��

What an exciting time! You have made the decision to get a dog, considered the time and financial implications and meticulously researched different breeds. You may have already chosen a name - all that’s left is to choose that perfect bundle of fluff to bring home!

Now, having worked with several hundreds of puppies over the last few years, I know that something that is equally, if not more important than choosing the right breed of puppy, is choosing the right breeder.

I think, by now, everyone is aware of puppy farms and why you should not be buying your puppy from a puppy farm, as you know how important it is for your puppy to have the best start in life. However, what if I told you that your new family member may not have had the best start in life even if they did not come from a “typical” puppy farm that we imagine when someone mentions it?

Some people get puppies rather than getting a dog from a rescue mainly because they believe they would avoid potential behavioural issues that an older dog from a rescue may have. Please, don’t get me wrong, I am by no means suggesting that you should not get a puppy if it is a right decision for your circumstances.

But what if I told you puppies are not quite the blank slates we are led to believe them to be?

Your puppy arrives to you with 8 weeks of life experiences. Those early experiences are absolutely crucial for the puppy to learn about the world around them, to create a “reference library” of what is safe and what is normal, what they should and shouldn’t be fearful of, and so the more experiences they have had before they even get to you, the easier your life with your new family member will be. Mum’s stress during pregnancy will affect her puppies’ resilience to stress - so even the prenatal experiences will play a part in shaping your puppy’s future.

Puppies coming from really good breeders could be easier to toilet train, have fewer issues with puppy-biting or chewing. They would have experienced car rides, separation from mum and siblings (which makes their first few nights in the new home a lot less stressful), learned that following people is fun (helps with recall), learned some puppy manners already (for example, sitting instead of jumping to get the things they want), been introduced to typical household noises, and are happy to be handled. These are just a few examples of the benefit of getting a puppy from a good breeder that invests time in their puppies.

So what to look for in a breeder:

�� Good breeders have waiting lists - most already have prospective buyers lined up before the mating even happens, so be prepared to wait.

�� The breeder will ask you a lot of questions - about your lifestyle, work commitments, puppy care arrangements. I would walk away if the breeder does not ask those questions

�� Puppies from good breeders will come with lifetime backup, and a contract that a puppy is to be returned to the breeder should you no longer be able to care for them.

�� Parents will have had all relevant health tests (even if it is a crossbreed litter)

�� Covid restrictions allowing, a good breeder will want you to visit the litter, rather than making excuses

�� When you visit the litter you want to see puppies interacting with mum and siblings

�� You want mum to be relaxed in your presence, and happy for you to interact with the puppies. If the mum has to be put in another room - this is a big red flag for me!

�� You want to see a lot of toys and different objects in the puppy pen - think “circus threw up in the puppy pen” [Suzanne Clothier] so puppies have experienced biting toys, walking on different surfaces, exploring novel objects

�� There will be a defined toileting area in the puppy pen for younger pups (in an ideal world a litter tray with grass, wood pellets or wood shavings – things that resemble surfaces in the garden) - and older pups will be taken to toilet outside frequently.

What I would avoid:

�� Puppies brought up outside in kennels (even if the kennels are “nice”) - puppies do not get enough exposure to household noises, people, handling

�� Mum cannot be seen with puppies because she is “protective” of them - could indicate that mum does not have the temperament that you would want for your family dog

�� Breeder does not ask you questions

�� Breeder rushes you to make a decision

�� No toys/different objects for puppies to explore in the puppy pen area, pen area dirty/smelly

�� Puppies do not look healthy (discharge from eyes, dirty bottoms, they smell) - walk away

�� Even if the breeder is licensed with the local council or Kennel Club it is not a guarantee that they will bring up a litter of well-rounded pups (although it is a good place to start)

Getting a puppy is an emotional, financial and time commitment for the next 10-15 years. Choosing your puppy wisely will benefit both of you ��

Where would I look for a breeder? I would start with personal recommendations – if you know someone who has a dog of a breed that you want with a temperament you like – ask them. Breed clubs or breed/crossbreed Facebook pages are a good starting point too – where people share their experiences is another place where I would look.

I hope this helps someone in selecting their new puppy!

References:

Clothier, S. “ From 0-63 Days: Understanding How Early Puppyhood Development Affects Behaviour for Life ”, 2020, PPG Geek Week

Barbazanges, A, et. al. “ Maternal Glucocorticoid Secretion Mediates Long-Term Effects of Prenatal Stress”, Journal of Neuroscience 15 June 1996

Maccari, S. et. al. “ Prenatal stress and long-term consequences: implications of glucocorticoid hormones” Neuroscience & Biobehavioral Reviews, V. 27, Issues 1–2, 2003, pp. 119-127

Crate Training

Mon, 06 May 2019 17:56:11 GMT

Should I crate train my puppy?

Crate training Dos and Don’ts

I am a big fan of crate training (training being the key word!)! Some of the benefits of crate training a puppy (or an adult dog) are:

· It helps with the errorless toilet training - for those short periods of time when you cannot watch your puppy, having them content and resting in the crate really helps;

· It gives your puppy a portable “safe place”, that you can take with you when you go anywhere: try staying with a teething puppy in a hotel room/in a tent/at the in-laws (where every piece of furniture is antique/has sentimental value);

· Getting your puppy/dog used to the crate means that if they have to stay at the vets, they will be less stressed (as they will be staying in a kennel there);

· If your dog has to be on rest following an operation/veterinary procedure, that will make their (and your!) life a lot less stressful!

So what is Crate Training?

Crate Training is gradually getting your puppy (or dog) used to spending more time in the crate, by creating positive associations with it. You will need to work at your puppy’s pace (not yours), so some puppies/dogs will take longer than others.

Crate training is not shutting your puppy in a crate and letting them “cry it out” – if your puppy is unhappy in the crate, you are moving too fast…

Mabel is having an operation in a few days (and will have to rest to recover). We are working on the refresher (she has been crate trained as a puppy), as we want her to be a stress free as possible!

If you need help with crate training or any other training or behaviour related issues, please get in touch info@dogsbedogs.co.uk

Puppy socialisation

Wed, 24 Apr 2019 18:58:29 GMT

What does socialisation really mean?

Socialisation… I wish I knew this 9 years ago!

You have just welcomed a new puppy into your life, congratulations!

A word of warning: you are going to get a lot of advice on how to best bring up your four-legged family member from the vet, fellow dog owners, your great aunt Betty, neighbours, the guy in the coffee shop, random people on the street; basically, where puppies are concerned, everyone suddenly becomes an expert!

So, what makes me different from the guy in the coffee shop I hear you ask? I can’t really speak for him – he may actually know what he is talking about – however, I am a qualified dog trainer (full member of the IMDT, and holder of the OCN Level 5 Dog Behaviour, Analysis, Application and Modification qualification) with a keen interest in early socialisation (that means that I read everything I can get my hands on that relates to the subject matter, as well as attending various courses). I am also bringing up my second puppy in two years, so I can relate to pretty much any pain you and your little piranha-with-razor-sharp-teeth, I mean, fluffy bundle of joy, are going through.

The subject that will probably come up the most is socialisation – you need to socialise your puppy, so they can grow up to be the sociable and well-adjusted dog that everybody loves to have around. Failing to socialise your puppy could result in a fearful, anxious or even aggressive adult dog. So go-go-go – socialise now!!!!

This is great advice; however, this is where it becomes very confusing for a new puppy owner. What is socialisation? How do you socialise your puppy properly? How much is too much? How many dogs a day does the puppy need to (annoy) play with? How many people a day does he need to (jump up on) say “Hello” to?

How do you make sense of it all? How do you know that you’re covering all bases? When does the socialisation period actually end?

The socialisation period (or a critical window of socialisation) for puppies is relatively short; it usually closes when the pup is between 12-16 weeks old. The reason why it is so important is that during that time puppy’s curiosity outweighs his fear, so getting him used to new things, sights, smells, sounds, etc. is a lot easier during this time. The challenge is that most of this super important time happens before your puppy is fully vaccinated and should not be exposed to any risk of infections.

However, this does not mean that you cannot start socialising. Here are a few things that I myself use to socialise my dogs, as well as things I suggest new puppy owners try:

inviting people over to meet your new puppy;
taking him out in your arms (or you can even use a puppy sling), to watch the world go by;
taking him to dog friendly places such as pubs, pet stores, garden centres and especially your vet (also in your arms or in a sling);
taking the puppy to friends’ houses (providing they have secure gardens);
getting the puppy to meet fully vaccinated dogs (that are good with puppies) in your garden.

These are just some of the things that you can do with your new addition to help them to become a well-adjusted dog.

Am I doing enough?

The approach I suggest is quality vs quantity – I would ensure that all of your puppy’s experiences, be it with people, dogs, other animals or places, are positive.

When you start taking your puppy outside, try and experience as many sights, sounds, smells and textures as possible (walking on different surfaces, meeting different types of people – think gender, race, hairstyles, cyclists with helmets, motorcyclists, people in uniform, etc. – public transport, supermarket, pet stores, garden centres, the list goes on), while making the experience positive – treats, toys, games – it is all about building positive associations.

I make sure that my dogs don’t say hello to every dog or human that we meet on walks. This not only allows me to choose the most appropriate people/dogs for them to have interactions with, but also teaches them that they don’t get to greet EVERY dog/person they meet.

Socialisation is not about your puppy interacting with every dog/person they see on walks, but being able to walk past them politely, while still being able to focus on you.

This is something I learned the hard way. My Labrador is nine now, and we’ve had her since she was eight weeks old. Back then we were told that we had to introduce her to as many dogs and people as was humanly possible (I still remember taking her out for an extra short walk in the evenings if we hadn’t hit that day’s ‘quota’), I even encouraged other people to give her treats (to a Labrador. Really?! What was I thinking?!!). As a result of that ‘socialisation’, she is a socialite – she loves people and her purpose in life is to say hello to them all. The problem with this is that she also likes swimming (it is her second favourite activity after eating) and some people don’t like a wet dog enthusiastically wagging her tail and shaking off next to them (especially as some of our walking routes coincide with the shortest walk from Caversham to Reading station…).

How much is too much?

Watch out for your puppy’s body language (lip licks, looking away, moving away, and tucking their tail under, are some of the subtle signs of stress) and if your puppy displays any signs of being uncomfortable with something, give them space, increase the distance to the irritant until the puppy is comfortable.

I understand that we live in the real world and sometimes you will be put in a situation that might make them uncomfortable, so the more situations your puppy has a positive experience of, the easier it will be for them to cope with unexpected things in the future.

Enrol your puppy in a good puppy class, where the trainer not only uses force free training methods, based on positive reinforcement, but also invests in their continuous professional development (the trainer’s, not the dog’s!), by keeping up-to-date with research on dog’s behaviour and learning.

Never force your puppy to ‘face his fears’, and always have your puppy’s back!

If you want to find out more or need help with a specific behaviour your dog or pup is displaying, please get in touch info@dogsbedogs.co.uk

Say "YES" to the Dog!

Thu, 30 Aug 2018 00:00:00 GMT

Why saying "No" may not be working to stop the unwanted behaviours...

Say Yes to the dog! Or why saying “No” may not be working.

One of my favourite walking places had security guards with dogs all summer. Apparently, they are there to prevent people from swimming in the lakes (although they are still there now and it’s not really an open water swimming weather anymore…). So, a couple of times a week, I would pull up by the Security Guard’s van, smile, make small talk about the weather and how he works too much (seriously the same guy was there for 3 weeks in a row with no breaks) and unload a bundle of three [very excited about the walkies] dogs next to the security guard’s van. I have to admit, one of them is still a puppy and she has the best Chewbacca impression [when she doesn’t get her way] on this side of the galaxy! Going past the security van with my jolly lot has resulted in security dogs barking (every single time), the security guy shouting “No”, the dogs stopping for a second or two (probably just drawing a deep breath) and the barking continued. Every. Single. Time.

Now, think about it from the dog’s prospective… I often hear “No” or “ah-ah” when we don’t want the dog to do something, but we don’t tell them what to do instead and what behaviour is desirable/acceptable in that situation.

“No” may stop the unwanted behaviour temporarily, as the dog gets startled, however it does not address the problem, as the dog is not given an alternative behaviour to do…

Let’s take a dog who jumps up at family members, when the dog wants something, at visitors, when they arrive into the house, at people that they meet on walks.

A lot of the time, when the dog jumps up, they try and get attention, so saying “No” in these circumstances is actually fulfilling the dog’s need for attention (negative attention is still attention). So, is the dog going to stop jumping up? Unlikely.

How about if we teach the dog to sit when they see a new person? Or even just four paws on the floor (and make that a very rewarding thing to do); is that going to stop the dog from jumping up? It is a lot more likely, if you put some work into it.

When one of my dogs does something I don’t want them to do, I always think “What do I want them to do instead?” and make that behaviour a lot more rewarding, like giving my adolescent terror (typo, I meant terrier) chicken for sitting, instead of humping my middle-aged Labrador…

The security dogs are still there and still barking, with the handler shouting “No” … Although he has added “Quiet!” to his repertoire.

If there are any behaviours that your dog does that you want to stop saying “No” to, please get in touch: info@dogsbedogs.co.uk